Back Deck

To me it’s a deck. A landing is at the end of stairs but either way it’s an exterior raised structure and I know the building officials here would want it built like a deck. The 2x2 isn’t used anymore by what I’ve seen. Decks are exposed to the elements, snow loads and wind uplift. the hangers perform better and are usually required. If the 2x2 method is used it has to be lagged. What I’ve found to be required in decks is that you can’t rely on just nails or screws for structural connections. It has to be lagged, bolted or use an approved bracket. You have to use the right fasteners all the way around and all metal has to be corrosion resistant especially if PT is used. No “Coated Sinkers” are allowed. Here is a good link for deck construction.

http://www.thedeckbarn.com/howto-buildadeck.aspx

Stairs and landings are not a deck.

If this thing fails, you fall how many inches?:wink:

We are not Code enforcement, but for those that like to follow the code, I have this to help.

[FONT=Times New Roman]Exterior Stair Code Requirements[/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman]The following information is provided from the International Residential Code (06’ Version) which is the adopted building code for residential construction in Delaware.[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman]Please consult the code for further detailed information.[/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman]1. Landing Requirements[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• There shall be a landing on each side of exterior doors.[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• The floor or landing at the exterior door shall not be more than 1.5” lower than the top of the threshold.[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• The landing shall be permitted to have a slope not to exceed 2%.[/FONT]
**[FONT=Times New Roman]Exceptions: **A stairway of two or few risers is not required to have a landing on the outside as long as door[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman](other than storm) does not swing over the doorway. Exterior landings shall not be more than 7 ¾” below the top of the threshold, as long as the door other than the storm does not swing over the landing.[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• Landing width shall not be less than the width of the door(s) served. If sliding glass or French doors are installed,[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman]the landing width should include the width of both doors, regardless if one panel is fixed or not.[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• The minimum size of each landing shall not be less than 36” x 36”.[/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman]2. Stair Width Requirements[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• Stairs shall be a minimum width of 3’ x 3’ (36 inches).[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• Handrails shall not project more than 4.5” on either side of the stairway and the minimum clear width of the stairway at and below the handrail height, including treads and landings, shall not be less than 31.5” where a handrail is installed on one side and 2” where handrails are provided on both sides.[/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman]3. Riser Height[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• Maximum riser height shall be 7 ¾”.[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• The riser shall be measured vertically between leading edges of the adjacent treads.[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• The greatest riser height within any flight of stairs shall not exceed the smallest by more than 3/8”.[/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman]4. Tread Depth[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• The minimum tread depth shall be 10”.[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• The greatest tread depth within any flight of stairs shall not exceed the smallest by more than 3/8”.[/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman]5. Attachment to House[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• Stairs shall be attached to the house to resist vertical and lateral forces, with suitable hardware (½” galvanized or stainless fasteners or other approved fasteners).[/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman]6. Stair Construction[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• Stairs shall be constructed out of pressure treated wood, or other approved material designed for exterior[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman]conditions.[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• Joists shall be a minimum of 2” x 6” pressure treated. Posts shall be a minimum of 4” x 4” in width.[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• Footers for posts should be 24” below grade. Width of post holes should be 8”. Post should be resting on a[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman]minimum of 8” of concrete.[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• All beams shall be attached to posts with ½” diameter galvanized or stainless fasteners or other approved[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman]fasteners.[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• Stairs shall be designed so that water will not accumulate on walking surfaces.[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• Tread surface shall offer slip-resistant capability and shall be securely attached to framing members.[/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman]7. Handrails[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• A graspable handrail is required on at least one side of a set of stairs with four or more risers.[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• Handrail must be continuous for the full length of the stairs. Handrail ends shall be returned or shall terminate in newel posts or safety terminals.[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• Handrails adjacent to a wall or guardrail shall have a space not less than 1.5”.[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• Handrail grip size must conform to one of the following:[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman]1. **Circular. **Handrail diameter to be at least 1 ¼”, no more than 2”.[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman]2. **Non-Circular. **Handrail perimeter of at least 4”, no more than 6”, with a maximum cross section of 2 ¼”.[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman]3. **Type ll/Recessed. **Handrails with a perimeter greater than 6 ¼” shall provide a graspable finger recess on[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman]both sides. Handrail shall be at least 1 ¼”, no more 2 ¾” above the recess. Recess shall be a depth of at least[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman]5/16”. (Consult IRC 06. R311.5.6.3 Handrail grip size for further information on Type ll handrails).[/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman]8. Guardrails[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• Stairs 30” or more above grade at their highest point require a guardrail.[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• Guardrail is to be no less than 36” in height.[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• Vertical members of guardrail shall be spaced to not allow the passage of a 4” sphere.[/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman]9. Required Inspections[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• **Three **inspections are required. A footer, **framing or form **and **final **inspection are required.[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• Footer inspection should be scheduled after holes are dug and before concrete is poured.[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• Framing inspection should be after stringers are cut and installed but before treads are installed. Form inspection is for masonry steps, once form is in place and before the concrete is poured.[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• Final Inspection should be scheduled after ramp is installed, handrail is installed, where required, and all[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman]necessary grading work has been completed.[/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman]10. Precast Masonry Steps[/FONT]
[FONT=SymbolMT]• Precast masonry steps should conform to the tread, riser, guardrail and handrail requirements. Please ensure[/FONT]
before purchasing precast steps, that City code requirements will be met. All requirements will be verified at final inspec

staircase.jpg

Exterior stairs.jpg

Hope this helps. :slight_smile:

Exterior stairs.jpg

Do you really think that landing is going to fail?? Even if the whole thing was built with nails I doubt you would ever have an issue with it. Yes, modern requirements say you should have certain things like hangers, but There sure are plenty of these things built with nothing but nails.

I agree Sean.

P5030009-1.JPG

25 year old deck with a 16’ span. I did fix it and brought to code because of all the work I was doing on the house. Didn’t have too, but could not leave that one alone due to the height. :slight_smile:

In the 2nd picture it calls it a deck. The landing is at the bottom of the stairs. It might now fall now but over time it’s going to get weaker due to the poor construction. Several fall around here every year. After the winter snow load and snow falling off the roof it starts to pull away. Then the first time a few people get on it falls. But you don’t need snow to weaken it. Wind, water, earthquakes. Codes often change because people die. You don’t want to hear about a deck falling at a house warming party and it’s a house you just inspected.
Read up on decks failing.
http://www.nadra.org/consumers/deck_inspections.html

May have missed it but did anyone wonder how solid the bottom of the handrail is?
Nothing but balusters all the way.

A landing serves the purpose of a place to sit groceries while you look for entry keys.
The picture in this story is not a deck (made for entertainment purposes.)
You would not put a chair on that thing and use it like a balcony.
A deck is a balcony that does not need to be tied to the structure to exist.
There is no such thing as a free standing balcony.:slight_smile:

I read that somewhere a few weeks back .Need to tag my saves better.

Call it what you want. Landings fall under the stairs section in the code. I still think it needs to be constructed as would a deck. Until the 2009 code Decks and Balconies were different and had different load requirements now they are the same.
**[FONT=TimesNewRomanPS-BoldMT][size=2]
DEFINITION: 2006 IBC: ** DECK. **[/size][/FONT][FONT=TimesNewRomanPSMT][size=2]An exterior floor
supported on at least two opposing sides by an adjacent
structure, and/or posts, piers or other independent supports.
[size=1]
[/size][/size][/FONT]

You are correct Robert, the landings are noted in the code for a 40# loading requirement in design like a floor on the interior. :slight_smile:

I think the big question here is;

We are not Code Enforcement, so should we dictate what is missing on that little entrance landing and stairs, and should we be saying that it does not meet code because of blah, blah, and blah?

Or as we all know, it don’t, is the installation a safety issue due to all those code reasons.?

Is the installation below the Standard of building practices for this type of construction?

Since it is new, should we say that it just doesn’t meet local code requirements as required by the permitting of the jurisdiction involved?:slight_smile:

Just thought to add a twist to the conversation. :wink:

Look behind the 2nd baluster from the bottom. The post is partially visible then there is the shadow beyond…on the steps.

I saw that too Larry, but thought it was a shadow.

I am surprised that no one mentioned anything about the open risers yet. :slight_smile:

No. At least not all at once. The more serious issue for me is the lack of flashing.

is it wood or hardie sidiing? If its hardie you know it wont rot any time in our lives

Probably so. However it contains wood fiber. That’s why Mr. Hardie says it’s not supposed to be in contact with decks.

Joe, sometimes you can’t believe everything you read. :mrgreen:

Even manufacturers will write everything under the sun to compensate for ill installaions just to protect themselves.

Just last spring I saw some failed Hardiplank on an 8 year old home. I was quite surprised.

How do you know that? How long has the product been on the market?

So, you’re OK with installation of a structure against the house that voids the warranty on the siding? You’d say nothing about that? Are you also OK with putting a structure against metal and vinyl siding?

What does your comment have to do with the deck being flashed??

You originally stated

WHich would lead me to believe you feel the siding will rot due to no flashing.
Maybe it does have some wood, but here is the warranty info.

I would also would not state somthing about the the deck atachment voiding the siding. What, 2 planks of it?? How is a product that should last 30 years and impervious to rot going to fail if its against wood? If that was the case then it would fail in tons of applications since most houses are made of wood.

Why dont you send me the link that shows us exactly what this product is made of.

BTW, when I see a deck that is bolted against the vinyl I write it up as improper, but if its bolted its should not fail.
IT also would probably not have any more water issues then that of many flashed decks. Threse applications are not correct, but I would not write them up in a manner that would make us think they are deficient.

Joe, maybe you should focus more on common sense then technical building practices you read about in some book :roll:

Here is the warranty info BTW
http://www.jameshardie.com/pdf/warranty/hz10-hs0946.pdf

There’s got to be another warranty for the Northeast, see that product everywhere Sean.
I also would not be concerned with the flashing for that type of product. Not for that little landing. Seen worse. :slight_smile: