Boiler / W/H in garage?

Picture 1 is the garage
Picture 2 is the back of the garage
Picture 3 - a left and another left
Picture 4 - Boiler and WH.

To my way of thinking, they are still in the garage, even though a wall separates them from direct contact with the garage.
BTW - The WH is an FVIR unit.

Picture 5 is a flue tile lined vent to the exterior that runs under the house (currently blocked by a piece of wood). This vent must have been the source of combustion air before the renovation. Your thoughts?






My first thought is “oh no” which melted to Boilers are not like HVAC units in that you are not bringing air in to the house from the garage.

Is the space big enough that combustion air is not an issue?

many areas require 18 inches above the floor but some do not .
Check pipe penetrations or any for that matter which lead into the home .

Why are garages (both attached and detached) fire hazards?
Oil or gasoline can drip from cars. These fluids may collect unnoticed and eventually ignite.
Flammable liquids, such as gasoline, oil and paint, are commonly stored in garages. Some other examples are brake fluid, degreaser, motor oil, varnish, lighter fluid, and fluids containing solvents, such as paint thinner. These chemicals are flammable in their fluid form, and some may create explosive vapors.
Heaters and boilers, which are frequently installed in garages, create sparks that can ignite fumes or fluids. Car batteries, too, will spark under certain conditions.
Mechanical or electrical building projects are often undertaken in the garage. Fires can easily start while a careless occupant is welding near flammable materials.

This is a garage/basement type arrangement. All of the living spaces are above.
The space is definitely big enough, but I’m concerned about gas vapors from the cars hitting the boiler flames.

Ask Robert he is the AHJ in your area.
It would be a no go for Ontario. We are still on the same page for B149.1-05 and the B139, 18 inches minimum elevation is required and no passage of air through the home. I cannot comment on your air requirements coming from under the garage.:smiley:

he 2006 edition of the IRC states the following concerning garage walls and ceilings:

********* R309.2 Separation Required
The garage shall be separated from the residence and its attic area by not less than ½-inch (12.7 mm) gypsum board applied to the garage side. Garages beneath habitable rooms shall be separated from all habitable rooms above by not less than 5/8-inch (15.9 mm) Type X gypsum board or equivalent. Where the separation is a floor-ceiling assembly, the structure supporting the separation shall also be protected by not less than ½-inch (12.7 mm) gypsum board or equivalent. Garages located less than 3 feet (914 mm) from a dwelling unit on the same lot shall be protected with not less than 1/2–inch (12.7 mm) gypsum board applied to the interior side of exterior walls that are within this area. Openings in these walls shall be regulated by Section 309.1. This provision does not apply to garage walls that are perpendicular to the adjacent dwelling unit wall.
In addition, inspectors can check for the following while inspecting walls and ceilings:

In garages that have access to the attic, a hatch cover made from an approved, fire-rated material should protect this access at all times. Missing or opened covers should be called out, as should covers made from flammable materials, such as thin plywood.Garage attic door must be constructed such that the 45 minute ratingis maintained; any drywall edges on both the hatch and the surroundingarea exposed to physical damage are protected.The cover or door is installed so that it is permanent (non removable)with hardware to maintain it in a closed position with latchinghardware to maintain it in a closed position. This could beaccomplished by the use of spring loaded hinges, door closer, orhardware that will not allow it to be left in an open position when not inuse. A single bolt type or hook and eye hardware does not provide apositive closure since these would allow the door to be left open.Likewise drywall screws are “fasteners” and not hardware so theycannot be used as the only means of keeping access doors closed.
The living space is separated from the garage by a firewall that extends from the floor to the roof. If the ceiling material is fire-rated, the firewall can terminate at the ceiling.
Drywall jointsshall be taped or sealed.Joints shall be fitted so that the gap is no more than 1/20-inchwith joints backed by either solid wood or another layer of drywallsuch that the joints are staggered.*

My concern is for the possibility of gas vapors igniting, not the fire wall. - :slight_smile:

I would then recommend the 18.

Nope… a former AHJ (one of the hats I have worn). I run my own business now … :wink:

Spaces adjacent to the garage that are not part of the house with the required fire separation are considered part of the garage. So the boiler as an ignition source is a concern (not the FVIR WH). The boiler could either be elevated (pretty involved) or they might be able to create a fire separated mechanical room with a self closing door and combustion air intake. Also recommend permits for any work like that.

JMO & 2-Nickels … :wink:

I meant you are from NY and an authority according to your position.:smiley:

That’s how I wrote it. Thanks.

I hope you added at least 18 inches as a reference. They may think you need to raise it to prevent rust and you know what that means.:smiley:

The boiler was on a small raised concrete platform so rust wasn’t an issue. I just recommended closing off that portion of the garage and getting combustion air from the exterior. Apparently the AHJ approved the set up years ago, so I don’t expect them to do much (if anything), but at least I made my recommendations.

That is what I would do also in this application. Raising it would be much more expensive as to a plumbers prices over a wall with X-type drywall and sealed fire proof door with a closing hinge.:smiley: