Has anyone ran across this application of brick materials? I am not sure what is on the bricks, but they covered the weep holes with this. Can anyone help me identify this?
That would be my guess…
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I concur with, Marcel.
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I’m curious; could using an acrylic/dry lock coating on exterior brick actually trap moisture IN the brick- especially in the case of the photo, with a sidewall left exposed? I have seen a lot of painted masonry here in Indiana, and it’s a crap shoot if it spalls, or they get lucky and it doesn’t. (Making sure it’s dry first helps, of course). I’ve become leery of painted/coated/sealed masonry on exteriors as a result, since I can’t really determine for sure if a coating is permeable or not. Curious what your thoughts are?
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Choosing between painting exterior brick and using sealers or coatings depends on your goals and the specific characteristics of your brick. Here are some key points to consider:
Painting Exterior Brick
Pros:
- Aesthetic Appeal: Painting can give your home a fresh, modern look with a wide range of color options.
- Protection: Paint can provide a protective barrier against the elements.
Cons:
- Maintenance: Painted brick requires regular maintenance and repainting every few years to prevent peeling and chipping.
- Moisture Issues: Paint can trap moisture inside the brick, leading to potential damage over time.
Sealers and Coatings
Pros:
- Natural Look: Sealers can preserve the natural appearance of the brick while providing protection.
- Breathability: Many sealers allow the brick to breathe, reducing the risk of moisture-related damage.
Cons:
- Limited Aesthetic Change: Sealers do not offer the same range of color options as paint.
- Application: Some sealers require more careful application to ensure even coverage and effectiveness.
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I should have also added this to the above;
See Technical Notes 23 Series.
Brick. Brick units to be used for walls that are to be painted should conform to the applicable requirements of the
ASTM Specifications for Building Brick or Facing Brick, C 62 or C 216, respectively. The grade of units (which
designates their durability) should not be lower than would be used if the wall were not to be painted. Grade SW
is recommended. It may be acceptable to use brick units which are durable but differ in color in a wall to be
painted. However, care should be taken that the units have similar absorption and suction characteristics so that
the paint applied will adhere to all of the surfaces and have a uniform acceptable appearance.
Mortar. Mortar for brick masonry walls to be painted should conform to the Specifications for Mortar for Unit
Masonry, ASTM C 270, Proportion Specifications. It is suggested that the mortar consist of portland cement and
lime, and that the mortar type be selected on the basis of the structural requirements of the wall. See Technical
Notes 8.
Paint. Paint for application to brick masonry walls should be durable, easy to apply and have good adhesive
characteristics. It should be porous if applied on exterior masonry, thereby permitting the wall to breathe and
preventing the trapping of free moisture behind the paint film.
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Thanks for the info, Jeffrey. I find that I too favor lime wash. Unfortunately it is a real PITA to procure.
Thanks so much for the info you provided, Marcel. That was more information that I was expecting! Based on that article, I would tend to think that where I saw spalling of painted exterior masonry, it was most likely painted with an oil-based enamel, which is what I thought it looked like. Certainty is elusive when there are so many other compounds that I have not used personally. I wouldn’t get into those weeds in a report anyway, but it’s always nice to try to gain a better understanding. Thanks again for your help!