Caulk needed?

Originally Posted By: jlybolt
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Originally Posted By: Jay Moge
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usualy “trim” is just a means to hide the actual flashing or what ever means used to ensure water integrity. however if water can get in, it could couse the trim to rot. the top of the units should be caulked and the rest flashed. icon_cool.gif


Originally Posted By: dspencer
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Thats looks like HB siding. When installed it is ran flush with window(caulked used here). The 1x material is cosmetic and caulk is not needed. Main thing to check here is window head flashing.


Originally Posted By: jlybolt
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Thanks everybody


Originally Posted By: bemelander
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I would recommend caulk mainly because you don’t know what is behind the trim.


Bill


--
Anchor Home Inspections

bill@anchorinspections.com

Originally Posted By: dspencer
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bemelander wrote:
I would recommend caulk mainly because you don't know what is behind the trim.

Bill


Caulk without proper flashing could trap moisture.


Originally Posted By: mcyr
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icon_smile.gif icon_smile.gif


James;


The photos you provided are showing very poor Architectural and standard for window trim and siding.
The trim boards should have been 5/4 stock material and the siding butting against the trim and then caulked.

To caulk this situation would look like a mess and if you don't, bugs will make a new home along with water intrusion behind the trim.

I would strongly recommend an Architects review or a prominent Building Contractor to evaluate this further.

Marcel


Originally Posted By: jonofrey
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James that’s the way it’s done here in Texas. No caulk needed. The windows more than likely are flashed with window wrap behind the cement fiber siding but you can’t see that so don’t worry about it. If you call this out for caulk you’ll look like an idiot.


Good idea you had about checking other houses in and outside of the neighborhood. If you're not sure, sometimes that can help you get a clue.


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Inspection Nirvana!

We're NACHI. Get over it.

Originally Posted By: dspencer
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Way a lot of builders do it here to.Again these are cosmetic boards; installed like shutters. Do you caulk shutters in?


Originally Posted By: lkage
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Functionally poor for the bug houses alone.



“I have never met a man so ignorant that I couldn’t learn something from him.”


Galileo Galilei

Originally Posted By: hspinnler
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This is done both ways here in GA. Windows are usually vinyl and self-flashed. I wonder if they are causing potential problems by caulking between window and siding when they ought not to be. It takes a huge amount of caulk to caulk these gaps and I wonder if water can get trapped if it enters the top portion of the window.


Originally Posted By: psisler
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James,


Sorry this is late. I agree with some items that were covered considering your situation. However, as a Contractor, here in CA, when installing siding and windows on any home (new/old) the window rough framing should be flashed first. I have seen contractors use roofing felt, craft paper, tyvek and a polyethelene fiberglass reinforced asphalt tape for flashing. I use the later first then caulk the opening, install the window, add more flashing over the window flange and then trim after the siding. The top of the trim I always caulk. If this is done properly, no moisture can intrude in this area. The thought of caulking the areas on the sides would take tons of caulk to seal (as another member mentioned). This is not necessary. The siding boards (no matter what type) have to breath for expansion/contraction. The trim is merely cosmetic in lap siding if the unit is flashed correctly. Be it 5/4, 4/4, or 6/4 trim does not matter with the exception to code in the area of inspection (state to state). I have seen 2x6 trim around windows. This is a big thing in the area I live due to the cold winters. I do Construction Inspections all the type for new home owners and check to ensure the the house is flashed properly. My house has similar lap siding and trim around the windows but they are watertight. Different Window Companies also have different ways to flash their windows for their warranty. Getting into this area is touchy to say the least. You have a great deal of good advice here from members. I hope this helps.

Patrick