I chose to write my essay on Grease Trap Inspection. I learned to avoid filling up the grease trap oil from pots and pans can be dry whipped and thrown away. Also when cleaning grease traps to wear gloves and avoid soaps.
Debris and an improper slope are causing standing water on this roof. The debris should be cleared, and the slope of the roof be adjusted to allow water to properly evacuate through the scupper at the far corner of the building.
Conducting a commercial inspection is more about knowing how to coordinate a team of experts than performing inspections. While general knowledge of what to inspect and what not to inspect is important, it is more important to know which system experts to include on the team and what sources of supporting documentation are available to supplement the final report.
This is a photo of basement flooring. The tile should be tested by a licensed asbestos professional to make a proper determination of the tile. It is also noted that some of the tiles are cracked and lifted from the subfloor. It is recommendable that a licensed professional determine any potential health hazards.
The picture a chose shows the proper installation of fire-blocking at a chimney. the fire-blocking is installed on the double top plate. I would also suggest that fire rated caulking be installed at the gaps between the chimney brick and fire-block.
This fireplace stands at a fancy restaurant and shows a problem with the chimney.
There must be a blockage and inspector must inspect at first if the damper is properly working. Otherwise, must inspect if the chimney is clear of any type of obstruction.
The fireplace should not be working until repairs are done.
I read the article “Grease Trap Inspection”
I think it should be a mandatory part of the commercial inspection, because of all it’s consequences, when the grease trap is not properly maintained.
It is a huge burden to the city municipality to maintain and clean the sewage pipes because of all the grease that get clogged.
1: Wires in center enter panel with no strain relief / proper connectors. Sharp edges of metal panel can abrade soft wires and cause electrical failure. 2: Knockout at bottom right of box is open. These openings create potential shock hazards, they might not properly contain a fire that could occur within the box, and can admit unwanted visitors such as mice. Recommend repair for safety by a licensed electrical contractor.
Stairways
Stairways are the sites of a surprising number of injuries
Facts and Figures
1,638 people died from falls on steps and stairs in the United States in 2004
In addition to potential physical injury, falls can cause serious psychological and social consequences, affecting confidence, mobility, and general well-being, according to the same study.
The following is a partial list of defects you may find in stairways:
Handrail is loose, incomplete, missing, splintery, not of a contrasting color with its background, or has insufficient finger clearance.
Stairs are too steep.
Platform or landing surface is not slip-resistant, and/or has a sharp object, blunt wall, or window located in the direction of a possible fall.
Nosing is missing, broken, worn, patched, loose, slippery, or not installed properly.
Sharp corners are on stair elements.
Other tips that inspectors can pass on to their clients to reduce the chance of stairway falls include:
Remove trip hazards, such as clothes, shoes, toys and/or books from stairs and other places where you walk.
Improve the lighting around the stairs. As you age, you’ll need brighter lights to see well. Lampshades or frosted bulbs will reduce glare.
In summary, stairways can pose a serious safety risk for building occupants, but these risks can be minimized by adequate stair construction and safe practices.
While inspecting the attic & crawl spaces of homes and businesses I find one of the most common offenses are electrical wires haphazardly spliced together with wire nuts and electrical tape. Often only electrical tape. These of course are fire hazards and should be in approved metal electrical boxes with covers. Within commercial jobs, the electrical wires should be ran within approved conduit as well.
Identifying possible asbestos. Asbestos as pipe insulation, flooring, siding and roofing materials was common before 1977 and is still found in and on hoses today. It is said that so long as it isnt cut or disturbed that there isnt anything to fear. I advise my customers when I believe asbestos to be present that they have a licensed asbestos removal company remove for the safety of their family.
inspection of the exterior wall in an approximately 60 year old building There appears to be a whole wall missing insulation. Also noted no fire wall in place between the properties basement and adjoining inspection of the basement
further evaluation by a licensed contractor recommended
From course:
What is an expansion tank?
An expansion tank is a metal tank connected to a buildings water heating appliance designed to accommodate fluctuations in the volume of a buildings hot water supply system. These fluctuations occur because water expands in volume as it gets hot and loses volume as it cools.
Expanding water volume in a closed system can create dangerously high water pressure. As water is forced into the tank by expansion, it compresses air contained inside of a rubber bladder. Air is used as a cushion because it exerts less force on its container than water, which cannot be compressed.
The function of this bladder is to prevent air from becoming absorbed into the water, a process that could cause the expansion tank to lose its ability to act as a sort of shock absorber. If, over time, the bladder begins to leak some air, a Schrader valve, identical to the fill valve found on bicycle and car tires, can be used to add more air.
The attic is partially insulated with fiberglass batt insulation. Some areas of attic have no insulation on the ceiling. The R Value of the fiberglass batt insulation is unknown. Recommend the attic be fully insulated for efficient use of heating/cooling equipment and costs.
Emergency egress openings are required in bedrooms. A minimum clear opening of 5.7 square foot is required with a sill height no higher than 44 inches off the floor. In addition to the clear opening net, a minimum width of 20 inches and height of 24 inches is required.
This is an image of a moisture soaked roof sheathing inside attic space taken from the attic hatch. There was moisture/water damage observed in several areas of the wood sheathing and organic growth was starting to show due to excessive moisture and leaks were coming from deteriorated roofing materials. Wet insulation and pools of water were also around attic hatch. Attic area was not accessible due to low roof line making it difficult to see further inside space. Recommended for immediate evaluation/remediation by qualified roofing contractor to improve roofing material repair/replacement. Which will enhance and protect attic space from further damages and finished areas within home.
When I inspect a new home that has an undeveloped basement with only insulated walls and vapour barrier. I look for several things like making sure the insulation batt pieces are fitted snug between framed exterior walls and all seams are tuck taped together. Closing off any loose or missing vapour barrier seams is important to reduce cold air gaps and possible condensation or organic growth. Sealing any gaps around exterior basement wall receptacles will stop cold air penetration. Having the entire basement insulated will provide for less heat loss, greater comfort levels, decreased heating bills and increased livable space below grade.
This commercial door displayed rust at the bottom. The slab on the outside was level, not sloping away from the structure. Inside water penetration had damaged floor tiles. I recommend installing a barrier on the bottom of the door to protect it and seal out water intrusion. Since the slab was level and too expensive to alter I also recommended that this area be added to the snow removal list for the building.
There are generally two types of fireplaces most commonly found in residential use, masonry and pre-fabricated metal ones. The metal units are commonly referred to as factory built. Our inspection of chimneys is that of a generalist and not a specialist, and is described by specialists as less than a phase-one inspection, as distinct from phase one- and phase-two inspections that are conducted by fireplace specialists. Please note that significant areas of chimney flues cannot be adequately viewed during a home inspection. Phase-one inspections have been documented by the Chimney Safety Institute of America which reported in 1992 “The inner reaches of a flue are relatively inaccessible, and it should not be expected that the distant oblique view from the top or bottom is adequate to fully document damage even with a strong light.” Therefore, because our inspection of chimneys is limited to those areas that can be viewed without dismantling any portion of them, and does not include the use of specialized equipment, we will not guarantee their integrity or drafting ability and recommend a phase-two inspection by a specialist within the contingency period to fully document the condition of the flue in its entirety.
Building requirements for decks have changed numerous time during the past decade. It is important to determine if the deck was built with a permit as this will indicate that it was built properly at time of construction. If the issuance of a permit cannot be confirmed, we recommend having the deck evaluated by a contractor who specializes in building decks prior to the end of your contingency to determine if any modifications are required. Evaluating the deck to a standard in place at time of construction is outside the scope of a generalist home inspection. Significant design and engineering goes into the construction of a deck. A home inspector can only comment on the condition of the deck, but not on the adequacy of its design.