Concrete Porch abutting siding

Moisture will find its way between concrete and siding. Because lack of air flow will prevent it from evaporating, moisture levels will eventually activate mold fungus, exterior sheathing and studs will begin to decay and mold spore concentrations in indoor air will rise some.

If it were my house I’d slot the siding and get some flashing in there, sealed to the concrete.

I’d write it up as a potential decay and mold problem created by poor construction practices.

I am sorry, but I would have to and do disagree with your statements.

Since I can not call you by your name and you sure are not a Home Build-er,
It is obvious that you are trying to tie in this scenario to a Code that is in black and white and doing a poor job of it.

Larry and Kenton have provided more sense out of this speculation that one might call it based on pictures than you have.

I believe we all have a clear picture, and that is right and wrong, and you fail to recognize it.

Steve the original poster saw the problem too and questioned it and was right in doing so. Write what you see and let someone else decide what they want done about it.

Marcel :slight_smile: :smiley:

Well, marcel, you can presume whatever you want, but I am a 30 year homebuilder, code official and inspector and know what I am talking about.

No one has YET answered just HOW this concrete porch butted up against the vinyl siding will or has caused any problems.

HOW? WHY?

We have the original investigating inspector noting ‘efflorescence’ in the foundation wall below the porch, but admits the porch and deck is covered by a roof and not noramlly subjected to water infiltration…

So how is ‘rain’ or water running off the porch the problem?

It likely isn’t.

Sounds more like a bad damproofing/waterproofing of the foundation issue to me.

And sounds like you’d have the same efflorescence problem if the concrete porch was there butted up against the vinyl siding or if the concrete proch or any porch existed at all.

Start actually THINKING about this problem, people, and stop trying to just knee-jerk response without considering all the facts!

And blaming builders or code officials when the home inspector is making claims that simply don’t add up…

sheesh…

I had a similar situation this summer. Approx. 7 year old house. Front porch slab was poured against the siding. The band sill in the crawl space was totally rotted out.

Homebild,

when it comes to basement waterproofing, quite a few builders and the codes/code officials are to blame, they sure as hell are.

yet another brilliant builder thought he could add an addition against the back wall and by doing so he assumed it would keep all ground water away from the basement wall that was already leaking, has vertical and horizontal cracks `n efflorescence…big mistake.

waterproof the exterior of the wall BEFORE building the stupid addition will ya please! And backfill it with peastone. Why can`t most of these builders think ahead a lil bit.

now the homeowner has no choice but to install a waterdiverting inside system to try and keep water off the bsmt FLOOR, a system that does not stop/prevent further water-moisture from entering through-the-wall/through the cracks on outside of hollow block wall, and so it the efflorescence will continue and possibility of mold growing on wall/paneling will always be there.

so too is the possibility of termites/insects entering cracks that were left open/unsealed…brilliant. there are a couple of big trees 15-20’ away from this wall, subsoil-roots could be part of problem, may be growing against the wall. clay is still against the outside of wall, yeah, expand `n contract.

waterproofing codes are bllchtt. when having their round table code discussions they never want to consult the true experts, somehow believing they are more than capable, its obvious most dont GET-IT and/or dont care.

these are the same people who think its sufficient to put a cork in rod holes and maybe damproof the exterior of walls, wrong again.

Is there a moisture barrier under the siding?

John,

I could not have said it better!

waterproofing codes are bllchtt. when having their round table code discussions they never want to consult the true experts, somehow believing they are more than capable, its obvious most dont GET-IT and/or dont care.

http://www.badstucco.com/Leaks101_files/frame.html

This looks a bit like my house before I bought it. Many moons ago, and long before I bought the place, there was a patio in my back garden up against the basement wall, with no expansion joint. That wall had to replaced after it nearly collapsed and there is no longer a patio. I wonder if the vinyl will make a good expansion joint? I never had that.

It’s the best looking wall in my basement now.

It is to bad when the codes inspectors are on the job to inspect the forms the flat work fellas set up they do not make them flash the walls!

Carl; Unless there would be an illustration to show some how it is done, it would only be approved per the interpetation of whatever code they could apply it too at the moment. ha. ha.

My $8,000,000 job I just got done, the C.O. was approved in about a ten minute walk-through. He said it looked good and left.

I think the Residential Markets are keeping them busier than not.
They might know that the Commercial Market is scrutinized more by Architects and Engineers.
Just a thought.

Marcel :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

Unless some one keeps on talking about it nothing will change.](*,)

It is #5 in the red!

IRC

R613.5.1 Anchoring requirements. Window and glass
door assemblies shall be anchored in accordance with the
published manufacturer.s recommendations to achieve the
design pressure specified. Substitute anchoring systems
used for substrates not specified by the fenestration
manufacturer shall provide equal or greater anchoring per-
formance asdemonstrated by accepted engineering practice.

R703.1 General. Exterior walls shall provide the building
with a weather-resistant exterior wall envelope. The exterior
wall envelope shall include flashing as described in Section
R703.8. The exterior wall envelope shall be designed and
constructed in such a manner as to prevent the accumulation
of water within the wall assembly by providing a water-resis-
tive barrier behind the exterior veneer as required by Section
R703.2.

R703.2 Weather-resistant sheathing paper. Asphalt-satu-
rated felt free from holes and breaks,weighing not less than 14
pounds per 100 square feet (0.683 kg/m2) and complyingwith
ASTM D 226 or other approved weather-resistant material
shall be applied over studs or sheathing of all exterior walls as
required by Table R703.4. Such felt or material shall be ap-
plied horizontally, with the upper layer lapped over the lower
layer not less than 2 inches (51 mm). Where joints occur, felt
shall be lapped not less than 6 inches (152 mm).
Exception: Such felt or material is permitted to be omitted
in the following situations:

  1. In detached accessory buildings.
  2. Under panel siding with shiplap joints or battens.
  3. Under exterior wall finish materials as permitted in
    Table R703.4.
  4. Under paperbacked stucco lath.

R703.8 Flashing.Approved corrosion-resistive flashing shall
be provided in the exterior wall envelope in such a manner as
to prevent entry of water into the wall cavity or penetration of
water to the building structural framing components. The
flashing shall extend to the surface of the exterior wall finish
and shall be installed to prevent water from reentering the ex-
terior wall envelope. Approved corrosion-resistant flashings
shall be installed at all of the following locations:

  1. At top of all exterior window and door openings in such
    a manner as to be leakproof, except that self-flashing
    windows having a continuous lap of not less than11/8
    inches (28 mm) over the sheathing material around the
    perimeter of the opening, including corners, do not re-
    quire additional flashing; jamb flashing may also be
    omitted when specifically approved by the building of-
    ficial.
  2. At the intersection of chimneys or other masonry
    constructionwith frameor stuccowalls,with projecting
    lips on both sides under stucco copings.
  3. Under and at the ends of masonry, wood or metal cop-
    ings and sills.
  4. Continuously above all projecting wood trim.
  5. Where exterior porches, decks or stairs attach to a wall
    or floor assembly of wood-frame construction.
  6. At wall and roof intersections.
  7. At built-in gutters.

Mark comes through again…thank you. :wink:

Michael D Thomas: …for starters that situation is a prescription for creating massivetermite infestation before damage is discovered.

Larry Kage: Typically, there is OSB type sheathing behind the siding with white wood framing and these will rot quickly with moisture running down the crack between the concrete and siding.

Me: Moisture will find its way between concrete and siding. Because lack of air flow will prevent it from evaporating, moisture levels will eventually activate mold fungus, wood wall assembly members will begin to decay and mold spore concentrations in indoor air will rise some.

Thanks, Kenton. :wink:

I did find 2 more pictures, I knew they were somewhere.
Steve

961 ELMWOOD 113.jpg

961 ELMWOOD 122.jpg

What the hell were they thinking when they poured those areas?

David,

They were not thinking!

I was wrong.

The concrete guys were thing the Beer was getting hot.

The ones I know anyway!:smiley:

From what I’m seeing on a daily basis here in Massachusetts, not many contractors/homeowners put some serious thought or planning into their projects.

I’ve got many pics to prove it. But let’s not go there, there’s too many.