Originally Posted By: cmccann This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Found this about 2 weeks ago. Got a call from the buyer saying the repairs were done with plywood shims. Is that a industry standard or would metal plates be the right answer? I always felt that wood was a home owner special.
Originally Posted By: jpeck This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
The shims should be the same species as the beam, so they are at least that strong (fiber bending, etc.) and the shims should also be independently attached to the beam (so they stay in place).
Originally Posted By: jpope This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
jpeck wrote:
The shims should be the same species as the beam, so they are at least that strong (fiber bending, etc.) and the shims should also be independently attached to the beam (so they stay in place).
They (it) could also be the same specs as the pier (i.e. grout or thin-set with the same compression quality as the original pier).
-- Jeff Pope
JPI Home Inspection Service
"At JPI, we'll help you look better"
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Originally Posted By: jpeck This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
jpope wrote:
jpeck wrote:
The shims should be the same species as the beam, so they are at least that strong (fiber bending, etc.) and the shims should also be independently attached to the beam (so they stay in place).
They (it) could also be the same specs as the pier (i.e. grout or thin-set with the same compression quality as the original pier).
True.
But they all try to get away with using cedar shim shingles.
Originally Posted By: cmccann This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Ok, I’m going to be meeting the contractor, the seller and my buyer(who is blind) Thursday. I need to arm myself with real facts. I know that steel is the best, but I also found where civil engineers say Hard Wood is OK. So I’m still researching. Thanks for the input.
Originally Posted By: jpeck This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Chuck,
Just as important at the shim ...
1) The block needs to be filled solid.
2) The block should be capped so the beam is not resting on the face shells (or as long as the cells are full to the top of the face shells, capping is better, though).
3) There needs to be a proper footer under the block.
4) The block needs to be secured to the footer.
5) There needs to be a termite barrier shield between the wood and the concrete, ESPECIALLY using the filled block versus a solid concrete pier.
6) As stated above, either the shim needs to be independently attached to the beam or the pier needs to be grouted to the beam (in a non-loaded state, then, after the grouting as cured, the beam can be loaded - an easier way is to remove some of the beam load with a jack, then let the fully loaded beam press down on the grout). When doing this, make sure there is a moisture barrier seat (metal seat) between the wood and the grout. A metal termite shield could serve both purposes.
Originally Posted By: mkober This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Chuck (and Erby),
The best long-term performing shim material would be steel, properly attached to the beam or pier support. Plywood is not engineered to serve as a compressive member over time, as well as having other drawbacks. The structural integrity of the pier in the photo also may be suspect, having the appearance of a less-than-true bearing surface.
Erby,
Is that photo for real, or did you stage the stuff? Hard to believe!
Originally Posted By: jwortham This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Nice repairs. High quality workmanship.
Very nice cuts on those plywood pieces.
And the flashing looks nice and straight! I am sure your client was very satisfied with that nice work! 
Originally Posted By: Jeffrey A Remas This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Since this is a structural repair, the code official should be the one to make the call on the repair for the purposes of informing the client.
Off the record, a tapered hard wood shim would be acceptable although metal would be the preference. Most shims need to be adjusted after a few years anyway.
Originally Posted By: cmccann This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Hi Jeffrey,
Well the call is pretty easy, no need for a code offical. Maybe the state contractors licensing board should be called. Yes I did read about hard wood on a civil engineers site. I would buy that off, but loose plywood..... 
I would think the obviuos problem is the staple holding on the wolmanized lumber tag...I mean that's gotta compromise the integrity of the wood, no? 