Cheater!
I called our county code enforcement office today and inquired. They have no requirement. But, I swear, 99% of the dishwashers I’ve seen in new homes are wired to a switch. Who knows why. Anyway, I didn’t write it up–never understood the logic for it anyway.
I sure wish I had the NEC on CD, because this is too long for me to type. The rules for disconnecting means for permenantly installed appliances can be found in the NEC in Article 422 Section III, Articles 422.30-422.35. The short version, 422.30 a means shall be provide to disconnect from each appliance all ungrounded conductors…422.31(A) not more than 300v or 1/8 hp…the circuit breaker may be used(covers range hoods)…422.31(B) over 300v or 1/8 hp can use the circuit breaker IF in sight of the appliance or if the breaker is capable of being locked in the closed position…422.33 for cord and plug connected appliances an accessible separable connector may be used as the disconnecting means.
THis is the short version. If anyone has the code on CD, maybe they could pos the whole Article.
Never seen a switch on a dishwasher either, must have been a Commercial Electrician where the rules change.
Marcel 
same here
Let’s try this again. . .
It’s a bit long to post it in a message.
Thanks Jeff for posting the Article.
Also, to clarify, if the dishwasher has a cord that is plugged into a receptacle, then the dishwasher doesn’t need a switch. Only if the idshwasher is hardwired (Romex straight out of the wall into the junction box on the dishwasher) does it need a switch.
Can someone please explain the logic for it?
The logic is exactly as Steve explained above.
The unit needs a means of disconnect.
Either a switch near the unit, or a receptacle and plug on the unit.
Both would be redundant and unnecessary.
It is also important to know that under the 2002 NEC the OFF on the dishwasher can also be considered the disconnection as well. Not On/Off…it must clearly say OFF and it must disconnect all ungrounded conductors from the unit completly which most new ones do with this marking.
The NEC allows for this…while many AHJ’s do not like it the NEC does give way to it under “Section 422.34 Unit Switch as Disconnect”
Joe,
Monday on a condo walk-thru here in Chicago, the builder’s rep was telling my client that it is now required here in the city of chicago for new construction to have a switch for the disconnect on dishwasher. And like you I have noticed this around here on all new construction. The switch located under the sink in the cabinet next to the dishwasher.
I live in a home built in 1975 that has the dishwasher on a switch mounted on the backsplash in the vicinity of the dishwasher. Thats in Plano, TX. We’ve been in this home 9 years. In 1975 we bought a new home in Carrollton, TX that came with a switch for the dishwasher. I’ve seen probably 3-5 in the homes I’ve inspected in the last 2 years, all built around the mid 70s and all in suburbs north of Dallas. I even added it as a yes/no data item on my report system.
Ron,
Did you add the Yes/No item for specifically a “Switch” or “means of disconnect”?
I put it in as a counter switch type item. Mainly to let the buyer know that if the diswasher doesn’t come on, they should try flipping the switch.
What’s the hazard of no disconnect? That’s the logic I’m searching for. Where’s the disconnect for the stove? Why is that any different?
Open the door…that disconnects it from power too. Just a thought.
Very common in Chicago. I expect that Dan’s builder’s rep is right…we do a lot of gut and other rehabs…can’t remember the last time in about a year or so where we DIDN’T find a switch, usually on the rear or side wall of the undersink cabinet. What’s really funny is that most folks don’t have a clue. Even after we’ve pointed-out the switch to the buyer at the inspection, we often-enough get a call within a week or two of their move-in, asking what may be wrong with their dishwasher, 'cause it won’t run. Turns out someone accidentally hit the switch while shoving storage goods under the sink.
I figured it had to be that the electrician’s union figured-out another way to rate the job/install time upwards by 30-60 minutes or so. Remember, this is the city where many of the sparkies would like to convince you that if your conductors ain’t in a pipe, they ain’t safe.
All I see is a way for service call fees to be made because a dishwasher isn’t working.
It doesn’t make sense to have a switch to turn the power off/on for a dishwasher that is installed under the counter yet if you have a portable dishwasher on wheels, like I have, it doesn’t need to be switched because you can pull the plug out of the receptacle.
Smart a$$ comment to follow!!
Next we will need to have all receptacles switched for safety. A disconnect required for all receptacles. Then after that a safety switch to turn off power to switches… If your going to work on something that is connected to electrical power you should be turning off the breaker or removing the fuse.
Serious point to note:
Now, another point to remember. Does that also mean that the receptacle can not be on a switch loop? Too many people (normally not electricans, switch the grounded side (did I use the correct term? White wire, Neutral) not the Hot (black, live) side.
Joe,
To be honest with you I have not read all the posts leading up to this…and frankly I fell off a 10’ ladder today on the job so forgive me everyone If I am jumping around…but I did want to answer your question…why no disconnect on a Stove…
Because the PLUG qualifies for the disconnection point as long as it is accessible…and usually under the bottom draw it is accessible.
Ok…neck is killing me…I am going to bed…Later Everyone…