Originally Posted By: rcooke This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
jmurray wrote:
Do you test the AC in the wintertime and the Heater in the summertime?
The answer is all of the above. You can not run the AC if the temperature is below 60 F.
I do not run the furnace in the summer if it is hot and the AC is running steady.
I do test the furnace if there is no AC.
I do run the furnace if I am able to shut the AC down for a period long enough for the system to be able to equalize it self . ( Example not extremely warm ) need to be able to shut system of for at least 30 minutes .
You should not shock a hot or cold furnace.
Originally Posted By: dandersen This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I built a device that hooks to the center hose of your refrigerant gages. It is hooked to the fan circuit with two wires (male/female spade connectors).
You can run the a/c at any OD Temp.
If you are EPA certified and want the schematic to this device, email me.
As for shocking ![icon_eek.gif](upload://yuxgmvDDEGIQPAyP9sRnK0D0CCY.gif) the furnace, the furnace is upstream of the a/c coil and never gets that cold. If it were downstream, the best the a/c could cool the furnace would be about 50 degrees. We do turn on the furnace at this temp?
You will load up the a/c after running the furnace. The high load should not be misconstrued as an equipment maintenance requirement.
Running the indoor fan continuously during testing will allow the a/c coil to cool in just a few minutes when switching between modes.
Most of the year the a/c is running well below capacity and will handle the added load with little problem. I always test the a/c first in the summer and last in the winter. This prevents the inaccurate readings in the summer and gives the a/c a load to work with in the winter.
Originally Posted By: rcooke This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
dandersen wrote:
That is true, but some HI's out there are EPA certified and have done HVAC stuff and do add these services for their clients convenience.
Stick to what you feel is the right thing to do.
But there is some mis-information circulating out there.
Just for info. ![icon_smile.gif](upload://b6iczyK1ETUUqRUc4PAkX83GF2O.gif)
Yes I agree there is misinformation out there and too many keep adding to it .
We are to do a visual inspection of the components of a home .
I am a retired Sparky I carry a $20:00 flash light a $10:00 gfci tester a $40:00 moisture tester ( Seldom use it ) a $10:00 voltage tester (Seldom use it ). A $400:00 Little Giant use it all the time , a $25:00 Mask use it all the time . A one dollar mirror use it regularly. A roberson and a straight screw driver . a small pair of plyers . A $5:00 ac thermoter, and A $15:00 bag to carry it all with this I can stay inside the SOP and stay out side of Court.
I also charge more then any other inspector in my area , have done this from day one.
To much information is given so new inspectors think they require much test equipment and I can only see this leading to difficulties in the future.
My opinion many others may agree.
Originally Posted By: Jay Moge This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
no i agree with you Roy. but there is something to be said about a special area of expertees. if an inspector used to be a carpenter, he’s going to know more about those systems than say a former plumber. he’s got a special knowlage above and beyond “generalist”. so i say if you know you know, if you don’t you don’t.
P.S.
multimeter w/ temp probe; $27.50 on ebay
12 l.e.d. head light $12.50 on ebay
21 l.e.d. uv ligh $8.50 on ebay
misc. hand tools collected over the years; free
rubber knee pads $10. on ebay
resperator government issue; free w/ honerable discharge.
17' little giant ladder borrowed from dad
45 yr old 12x50 "Albert" binoculars: inherited from pepere.(dad's dad)
kodad digital camara $100 @ K-mart.
A friendly non-bias complete home inspection; priceless.
![icon_cool.gif](upload://oPnLkqdJc33Dyf2uA3TQwRkfhwd.gif)