Do you guys test dryer outlets? If so, what method to you use?
Turn dryer on…if it spins and heats…outlet works 
Actually, I never thought of this…what if they move in and the outlet doesn’t work?
try turning on the dryer. i just use the “as the homeowner would do” method. if no dryer present, i use my multimeter and test both legs for 120vac. and state that power is present, unsure of dependiblilty.
damn Tony, you beat me by about 5 seconds.:mad: :mrgreen:
Yep…that’s what I’m wondering. I’ve never checked them. Starting to question my practices.
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you would think that would be disclosed by the seller…pretty sure they would know eh?
And if not disclosed…you would think they would go after them…what do the SOPs say?
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as far as i know (and in my report) it states that a “represented” number of outlets, switches and windows and doors are tested. not EVERY SINGLE ONE. i’d guess that would cover my butt if the outlet wasn’t tested, and tunded out to be dead…i hope.
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I choose the representative receptacles to be the ones my tester fits into…and not the ones that hurt really really bad when it hits you 
As Joe Ferry would say, the reasonable typical inspector only uses a regular outlet tester…
Many meter leads will not reach into these outlets reliably and could lead you to believe that no power exists.
I might start stating in the report that 220V receptacles are not tested.
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220 is an owie too…
A more definititive test would be to check across the hots for 240v. It could be wired wrong and get 120v to ground from both sides.
We test outlets if there is nothing plugged into them.
Since we have a lot of gas around here (!), the 220V outlet usually doesn’t have anything plugged into it, so we test it.
Ray, what method do you use to test 220v?
Joe,
I use the FLUKE testers. They’re very easy to use in testing for continuity at ANY receptacle.
I use the same things David does.
Use either the Fluke or a voltage sniffer if no dryer present. If the breaker is tripped off I do not reset to test but note it (and any others) in the report. Find a lot of dryer outlets not secured to anything, just hanging or dangling by the cable and often without a NM clamp. Lots of poor workmanship.
Or you can use a non-contact ticker and be done with it… if both sides TICK…you are good enough…once you go into the panel you will also be able to ensure it is connected correctly…but about all you can do.
Yep Paul,
That’s what I mean by voltage sniffer…I use a Greenlee. It is real sensitive so it begins to chirp without having to get that right on top of something. Comes in handy in the narrow attic spaces where sometimes all you can do is stretch out to check a piece of disconnected NM cable.
What is the model number of the Fluke that is shown in the picture?
Thanks,
Fluke T3 Voltage and Continuity Tester
http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/AccessoryDetail.htm?cs_id=34299%28FlukeProducts%29