Dryer vent pipe repair??

So the dryer vent pipe was full of lint and the first inspector reports to clean out the pipe and terminate the pipe to the outside. below is the repair done. Uncle Bob the Handyman installs a flex pipe to the soffit vent. It seems like more trouble to do this repair than just hard pipe into the roof vent. Am I missing something?

The roof vent would have a screen on it. Dryer vents shouldn’t have screens to get plugged with lint and create a fire hazard. Plus, that flex vent shouldn’t be used except as an appliance connector from the dryer the the solid rigid pipe vent system. It is too hard to clean out among other things.

Getting the dryer vent to exit at the gable would be my preference, with the proper termination.

http://www.nachi.org/forum/attachments/f20/77336d1410231693-dryer-vent-pipe-repair-dsc08368.jpg

Thanks Larry. Excellent advice.

Roof vents are for one purpose only, not dryer vents or bathroom vents.

• All dryer ducting must be a minimum of 4" in diameter. Clean, unobstructed, frictionless ducts encourage air flow efficiency, quickens drying times, adds longevity to clothing’s life and reduces utility bills.
• Flexible transition hose between the dryer and the wall outlet should be either the foil type or the aluminum flexible duct (most preferred). Do not use the plastic or vinyl.
• Concealed ducting must be rigid metal (galvanized or aluminum) duct.
• Duct joints shall be installed so that the male end of the duct points in the direction of the airflow.
• Joints should be secured with metal tape (not duct tape). Do not use rivets or screws in the joints or anywhere else in the duct as these will encourage lint collection.
• Length of concealed rigid metal ducting shall not exceed 35 feet (25’ for IRC). Deduct 5 feet from the allowable length for every 90 degree elbow and two and a half feet for every 45 degree fitting (the Dryer-Ell is an exception under 2006 IRC Section M1502.6, 2009 IMC Section 504.6.4 and 2009 IRC Section M1502.4). These lengths may vary per local codes and dryer manufacturers recommendations.
• Dryer venting shall be independent of any other systems (chimneys or exhaust vents)
• Termination of dryer venting must be to the exterior with a proper hood or roof cap equipped with a backdraft damper. Small orifice metal screening should not be part of the hood or roof cap as this will catch lint and block the opening in a very short time. The hood opening should point down and exhibit 12 inches of clearance between the bottom of the hood and the ground or other obstruction.

Here is one I had last week. It appears to have been venting into the attic for a while before someone put on the flex.

Larry is correct. If you’re not gonna cut a hole in the roof, then gable vents would be the best place to terminate.

Soffit vents are the lowest part for air to enter, then travel upward toward the ridge vent, roof vents, or gable vents.

So it would just pull the moisture-laden air right back into the attic.

The flex in the attic is a recipe for fire. No one is gonna go into that attic to periodically clean out the dryer vent.

recommend remove lint in attic due to being a fire hazard

I know this is an old thread, but didn’t want to start a new one. I am recommend correction, I don’t like to see according style venting systems in the attic. This should be a solid metal strand pipe all the way to the termination point. Do you guys agree? I am recommending that a solid metal pipe be installed all the way to point of termination through the roof.

Had one a few weeks ago where a contractor installed flex metal inside a wall. It came apart. The wall had to be opened up and install rigid duct.

Richard there are plenty of dryer DUCT terminations that go through the roof and are designed that way. As you know, they are popular in our area due to the house designs. You will be damned hard pressed to find a new construction house with a true gable in our area.

Obviously the static roof vent (Air Hawk) was not an appropriate method. The handy butcher made a bad setup worse by adding improper duct material and unnecessarily increasing the length of the duct. He probably just aimed it at the soffit vents which will cause big condensation issues, even in our mild winters and will collect bushels of lint.

Here’s what should be there, after screen removal. http://www.airvent.com/pdf/literature/BathandDryerVent.pdf and yes it will still ned periodic cleaning.