Originally Posted By: dedwards This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
MIke,
Duct tape is good for taping a hostage’s mouth, or a temporary fix for a flapping shoe sole but it is not worth a flip for ductwork. That is a big assumption. Duct tape always (repeat always) comes loose once it gets hot. Blaine is right about using the foil tape (code tape) for ductwork, and whenever possible using “hardcast” or mastic on ductwork seams to seal it up real good. Looks like a home owner repair. Unfortunately we see flopping end caps on ductboard constructed ductwork all the time due to someone using " duct tape".
Originally Posted By: Ryan Jackson This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
If I’m not mistaken (and tell me if I am), any duct conveying heated air must have a UL181 tape. That has only been a code requirement for about 4 years though.
Originally Posted By: mboehmer This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I believe IEC 2000 - requires all air duct transitions, joints and connections to be sealed airtight using a UL181 approved (or pending approval) mastic sealant for all types of duct material (i.e… sheet metal, ductboard, and flexible duct)
All seams on air handler(s), furnace(s), and plenum(s) must be sealed with mastic and reinforced with fiberglass mesh tape or UL181 tape.
Further, I believe that all ceiling penetrations must be caulked or foamed to reduce infiltration.