Freestanding stove connection - hardwired

I think I posted this in the wrong place before, so here it is:

I have a client who believes I should have pulled the stove to check the connection. The unit is hard wired and code says it should be an outlet box.
Do you people pull the stove to check this? I have always assumed it was hidden…and therefor beyond the scope of the inspection.

I always pull the stove and check.
Not sure what you mean by hardwired because if they for instance cut the plug and wire capped it that would be wrong.

Having a greenfield whip installed to a proper junction box plate would be fine.
Never see that however.

Important to pull and check for anti tip device,gas flex and shut off.
Many times I have caught brass flex being used which is a big hazard for gas ranges.

Go here…

What specific code?

If the manufacture say you can hard wire it then that is allowed. If the manufacture says cord you must use cord.

110.3 Examination, Identification, Installation, and Use
of Equipment.
(B) Installation and Use. Listed or labeled equipment
shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions
included in the listing or labeling.

I agree and hard-wiring would then require a disconnecting means if not within sight of the OCPD.

CEC 26-744 Supply Connections for Appliances
(4) Where a freestanding electric range, having a calculated demand of 50 amps or less, is intended to be installed in a dwelling unit, a receptacle… …shall be installed for the supply of electric energy to the appliance.
(6) In a dwelling unit, a freestanding electric range, having a calculated demand of 50 amps or less, shall be cord-connected by means of a cord and attachment plug of CSA config 14-50P

Didn’t realize you were in Canada. Hardwired is Not prohibited by the National Electrical Code.

2011 NEC
Article 422.31(B)

Appliances Rated Over 300 Volt-Amperes.

For permanently connected appliances rated over 300 volt-amperes the branch - circuit switch or circuit breaker shall be permitted to serve as the disconnecting where the switch or circuit breaker is within sight from the appliance or is capable of being locked in the open position. The provision for locking or adding a lock to the disconnecting means shall be installed on or at the switch or circuit breaker used as the disconnecting means and shall remain in place with or without the lock installed

I suspect the terminology for “freestanding” vs “permanently connected” is relevant. A slide in or drop in range (that ends up bolted to the cabinets-thus permanent) doesn’t require a recepticle here (great white north).

Please let me reiterate, the true meat of this topic is "Do you pull the stove to look behind?"

I have not been doing this as cheap vinyl flooring shifts and tears too easily.

I pull the drawer and look, sometimes I have to pull the stove.

I tilt them forward and/or slide out the bottom drawer.

No, I do not pull the stove forward to check. Moving appliances is a bad idea for obvious reasons.

Which is a good way to find cooktop connections as well by pulling out a cabinet drawer.

It’s even easier when you can open the doors.
From last Friday

Looks like they got rid of the downdraft and went cheap.
Do not see a junction box with hots in that picture.

If serving as a disconnecting means a receptacle is required by the NEC to be accessible by removing the drawer.