A lot of older houses with garages in the basements don’t have firewalls/ceilings. In fact they are usually just open framing. Maybe not so common in the North where I am moving, but very common here in the South.
Is it a “reasonable” recommendation (obviously a good idea) to bring it up to modern standards and sheet rock (fire rated) the ceilings and walls to interior spaces?
That could get pretty expensive for a 3 car garage…:ack:
I don’t think it’s a reasonable thing to do, but I recommend it in my reports nonetheless. I always tell my clients that the best defense against fire is a working smoke alarm.
I note in my reports whenever I see the following in Garages…
Open gaps (larger than the thickness of a dime) that is not backed with at least 3/4" plywood or a stud
Skuttle holes that are not properly sealed (using the same criteria) or have vertical doors that are not self-closing
Ceilings that are not at least 5/8" thick sheetrock or if the ceiling is open framed there is not a continuous wall that separates the garage from the dwelling space continuing to the roof line.
Walls adjacent to the dwelling space that are not coverd with sheetrock
Any ventialtion penetrations into the attached garage especially if there are not back-draft dampers
In my previous occupation, I have hung and finished hundreds of firewalls. the only one that didn’t pass in inspection is when an electrician cut a 6x6 in chunk out to run his wire. Pass on to your client, that if they ever want to properly finish the garage drywall, to tell their contractor they want a good job. I have seen so may fire tapes that were so bad, I had to remove the tape and refinish it, it is commonplace to “slap it up quick Joe, its just a fire tape”
I don’t. If it’s 5/8 thic type X then that satisfies the one-sided application (ceilings). If it’s 1/2 thick then that satisfies the two-sided application. Sometimes you can see some ID if there is a scuttle in the garage with no insulation. Tape isn’t necessary if the gap in the seams does not exceed 0.01" (about the thickness of a US dime) or it’s backed by solid wood or other drywall material as long as the joints are staggered.