A lot of older houses with garages in the basements don’t have firewalls/ceilings. In fact they are usually just open framing. Maybe not so common in the North where I am moving, but very common here in the South.
Is it a “reasonable” recommendation (obviously a good idea) to bring it up to modern standards and sheet rock (fire rated) the ceilings and walls to interior spaces?
That could get pretty expensive for a 3 car garage…:ack:
If that’s the case ,better your client understand before they close escrow than after.
I don’t think it’s a reasonable thing to do, but I recommend it in my reports nonetheless. I always tell my clients that the best defense against fire is a working smoke alarm.
I’d prefer a fire extinguisher for defense. ;-)
Drywall is very inexpensive, and you don’t have to finish it to perfection for a garage.
Great, thanks for the input.
I note in my reports whenever I see the following in Garages…
- Open gaps (larger than the thickness of a dime) that is not backed with at least 3/4" plywood or a stud
- Skuttle holes that are not properly sealed (using the same criteria) or have vertical doors that are not self-closing
- Ceilings that are not at least 5/8" thick sheetrock or if the ceiling is open framed there is not a continuous wall that separates the garage from the dwelling space continuing to the roof line.
- Walls adjacent to the dwelling space that are not coverd with sheetrock
- Any ventialtion penetrations into the attached garage especially if there are not back-draft dampers
I hope this helps!
In my previous occupation, I have hung and finished hundreds of firewalls. the only one that didn’t pass in inspection is when an electrician cut a 6x6 in chunk out to run his wire. Pass on to your client, that if they ever want to properly finish the garage drywall, to tell their contractor they want a good job. I have seen so may fire tapes that were so bad, I had to remove the tape and refinish it, it is commonplace to “slap it up quick Joe, its just a fire tape”
Hope this helped someone.
Along those same lines - how can you ID fire rated sheet rock without a visible label? What about tape?
I don’t. If it’s 5/8 thic type X then that satisfies the one-sided application (ceilings). If it’s 1/2 thick then that satisfies the two-sided application. Sometimes you can see some ID if there is a scuttle in the garage with no insulation. Tape isn’t necessary if the gap in the seams does not exceed 0.01" (about the thickness of a US dime) or it’s backed by solid wood or other drywall material as long as the joints are staggered.