Garage firewalls

Originally Posted By: bob haller
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I am attempting to sell my moms old home, she died 7 years ago. It was rented till recently, I remodeled it extensively, and had a buyer who backed out after the home inspection. One of the issues was no firewall in garage. I understand why this is important. I know of a home that burned to the ground after they put their car in the garage and went out with friends. Home had to be leveled to foundation and replaced.


The home is 50 years old should I go ahead and replace the garage cieling with the fireproof drywall? I already replced the door between garage and basement with a metal one...

I just want the next home inspector to sign off on the place when we get another buyer...

advice please and thanks for the help!


Originally Posted By: kmcmahon
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For safety’s sake, you’ve already supplied the proper remedy! icon_wink.gif



Wisconsin Home Inspection, ABC Home Inspection LLC


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Originally Posted By: rmoewe
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Is there any sheetrock in the ceiling now?


Originally Posted By: bob haller
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Yeah just the standard kind, which was code around here untill some years ago.


I guess my question is the seller expected to take a existing 50 year old home and bring it up to current code?

none of these are a biggie, but combined they do run into money. another one was a attic exhaust fan. my home has gable end vents as well as a full ridge vent but the attic was 30 degrees warmer than the oputside so it too got written up.

Tryingf to decide just what to fix? Realtor said no matter what I dio people will fuind more things wrong ![icon_cry.gif](upload://r83gSGUzNOacIqpjVReDwcR83xZ.gif)


Originally Posted By: jpope
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bob haller wrote:
I guess my question is the seller expected to take a existing 50 year old home and bring it up to current code?


First of all, code does not apply to existing buildings. If your home was signed off by the local AHJ 50 years ago, it was code compliant. Any subsequent alterations and/or additions would be required to be compliant to the codes in affect at the time of their construction (assuming permits were pulled).

Some jurisdictions require specific Health and Safety upgrades prior to title transfer. Is this what's going on in your case?

The fire separation is only required between the garage and living space. If there is no living space above your garage, the garage ceiling does not need to be fire rated. The common wall should be "rated" material (not "fire proof" material) from the floor to the ridge of the roof with all holes and seams filled.

And yes, a good inspector will find something in almost all cases. Don't sweat the small stuff


--
Jeff Pope
JPI Home Inspection Service
"At JPI, we'll help you look better"
(661) 212-0738

Originally Posted By: James D Mosier
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All inspectors will find something with any house, but is this inspector posibly a…


**** ******? (deal killer)


--
Jim Mosier

Originally Posted By: bob haller
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Well he wrote up faded ink on the middle department inspction sticker for the breaker cabinet, you could see it was signed but not quite make out the date or signature, and reported bees and wasps outside the home. Its summer and they kinda live outside… now inside or nests would be well worth noting icon_biggrin.gif I cut the grass there constantly and havent been attacked…


Lets just say my first experience with a home inspector wasnt a fun one.

Hey the leaky drain under the bathroom sink NO PROBLEM, surprised we missed that.


Originally Posted By: syared
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If the common wall between the house and garage does not extend up to the roofline the garage ceiling does need to be fire rated. Right?


Originally Posted By: bob haller
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In my case the garage cileling is the bedroom floor. Bedroom directly over garage.


So it should have a firewall, the question is should the seller do it, or leave this as a maintenance item for the new owner?


Originally Posted By: Guest
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Bob,


We're reporters, not negotiators. It needs to be done. It's none of our business who does it.


Originally Posted By: bob haller
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I am just wondering if I should and thought you might know?


I want to sell a quality product but really dont want to waste time effort and money unnecessarily.


Originally Posted By: Guest
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Sorry, I forgot you were an individual selling a home. My bad.


If you want top dollar you just have to weigh the expense against the gain. No matter what, you have to disclose the fact unless you correct the problem.


Originally Posted By: jhagarty
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If the ceiling is drywalled and painted, how can you visually detect if it is Fire Rated Sheetrock?



Joseph Hagarty


HouseMaster / Main Line, PA
joseph.hagarty@housemaster.com
www.householdinspector.com

Phone: 610-399-9864
Fax : 610-399-9865

HouseMaster. Home inspections. Done right.

Originally Posted By: Guest
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Good question.


Originally Posted By: bob haller
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Firerated is thicker and heavier too, its nearly a inch thick. theres one removable area, for access to the telephone punch down block. so its easily checked. plus I THINK firerate drywall is harder, but not certain about that.


My plan if someone makes a offer soon, if I get my price I will offer to fix all the maintenance items. If things drag on and I have the $$ I will just go ahead and clear the short list...


Originally Posted By: jhagarty
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Bob:


Municipal requirements vary in PA regarding the required fire separation. Check with your local building inspector to determine the necessary requirement related to the age, construction and location of your home.

Many homes do not have an access panel in the garage ceiling especially if there is finished living space above.


--
Joseph Hagarty

HouseMaster / Main Line, PA
joseph.hagarty@housemaster.com
www.householdinspector.com

Phone: 610-399-9864
Fax : 610-399-9865

HouseMaster. Home inspections. Done right.

Originally Posted By: bob haller
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Good idea about calling the building inspector! The access panel is a small piece of drywall screwed in place because the phone company put the punch down block on the garage cieling beams.


I am pretty sure that when these homes werre built about 1950 they had no cieling of any kind, just exposed rafters. my house a block or so away is bare rafters although I added insulation.


Originally Posted By: rhinck
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Steve,


Yes you are correct!



Rick


Originally Posted By: Larry L Leesch
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Considering that I have been arguing this point with my engineers for months in regards to fire rated driwall on ceilings with living quarters above, it was solved today with a call. If you are under IRC 2000, IRC is silent in regards to having the fire wall protection that was in place. Or better words- it ain’t required. Per their engineer, 1/2" regular gypsum will allow a 20 minute firewall with out being a 1 hour fire rated product. If all required systems in the house are functioning, the inhabitants have more than enough time to get out of the house. So, I get stupid and asked why is a 1 hour fire door required? I’m still waiting for a reasonable answer on that one.


Originally Posted By: jpope
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Larry L Leesch wrote:
So, I get stupid and asked why is a 1 hour fire door required? I'm still waiting for a reasonable answer on that one.


What jurisdiction are you under? IRC 309.1 and UBC 302.4X require a 20 minute rated door or 1 3/8 solid door (both self closing per UBC).

The 1/2 gypboard is rated at 20 minutes for wall application and 5/8 for ceiling per IRC.

UBC requires 5/8 walls and ceiling.


--
Jeff Pope
JPI Home Inspection Service
"At JPI, we'll help you look better"
(661) 212-0738