Gas Water Heater FUBAR?

Did a new home today. The gas water heater had a single wall vent that went through the ceiling of the garage into the attic. Inside the attic, the single wall vent ran about 8 feet and connected to a B-vent and traveled about 25 feet to exit through the roof. The run of pipe was only supported at the ends. The joints for the vent sections were taped.

Question 1: can a single wall vent pass into the attic at all?

Question 2: can you use tape on the joints?

Question 3: Is there a c-de that specifies the support distances?

Pics attached. Thanks for your help.

P.S. The guy who did this work was the electrician, plumber, and HVAC contractor. All those systems had problems.

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I would recommend someone of sound mind try it again…:shock:

What was the purpose of running it that direction, back of the house?

Water heater was in a side-load garage. They wanted the flue to run out the rear roof.

The same “craftsman” put a 140,000 BTU furnace and a 60,000 BTU A/C in a 2000 sq. ft. house. Return duct and thermostat in separate rooms, of course.

:smiley: :smiley: :smiley: :smiley: :smiley:

  1. No single wall allowed in attics.
  2. Taped joints are fine, however, double-walled elbows are not to be used for single wall piping.
  3. No code that I am aware of, but that shouldn’t stop you from recommending “adequate” support.

Thanks Jeff.

Oh…the guy also failed to put GFCIs in bathrooms and the garage. Open splices were in the attic. Receptacles had no power. He installed the microwave and it didn’t work. He complained about the new Cuttler-Hammer 200 amp service panel and when questioned, said FPE Stab-lok was the best ever made.

I’m thinking they need to remove all the sheetrock and closely examine everything he did.

Oh, no! :margarit: I’m agreeing with Jeff again.

With one exception. I believe the tape on the joints should be appropriately rated for high temperatures, not King George II’s duct tape. The tape in the picture looks like it is HTT (high-temperature tape).

Support for metal ducts should be made at least every 10’ with metal straps wire, or other approved means. Reference 2003 IRC M1601.3.2

Wonderful help. Thanks.

It’s a stretch (a long stretch I might add) to say that M1601.3.2 applies here as Chapter 16 covers duct systems for heating and cooling.

M1601.1 Duct design. Duct systems serving heating, cooling and ventilation equipment shall be fabricated in accordance with the provisions of this section and ACCA Manual D or other approved methods.

Personally, I would not consider using that reference in this case. . .

M1801.7 & 1803.3 Manufacture’s installation instructions apply. As does, as always, common sense.

Joe, what is your concern about the BTUS on the HVAc system? That should be irrelevant to your inspection right?

The SC standards of practice mandate that we report BTUs. Even if it weren’t for that, I think it’s a good idea and a valuable service. I have never done anything other than report the facts–the BTUs. However in this case there was such a blatent question about it that I referred it to a specialist.

High-temp. tape or not, long vent runs like that are often better-secured with mechanical screw-type fasteners (not to mention some hangers). Looks like the last elbow is actually supported by a purlin. If it’s B vent and sitting on the framing, you still need minimum 1" clearance to combustibles.

Here’s some IRC Fuel Gas:

[2426.6] All portions of vents shall be adequately supported for the design and weight of the materials employed.

[2427.10.10] A vent connector shall be supportd for the design and weight of the material employed to maintain clearances and prevent physical damage and separation of joints.

Jeff is correct, I thought I was still in the exhaust systems chapter, that and I obviously didn’t read it properly. Good thing I don’t go around quoting code in my reports.:stuck_out_tongue:

Does the code in SC require gfci in garage?The reason i ask is,in Ontario the code does not require it.


Yes, the county here uses the 2003 IRC.