Originally Posted By: Steven Brewster This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
What you think?
Saw this today and am concerned with the framing technique. This is a bearing exterior wall (trussed roof framing) and it appears that the rim joist is plywood not an APA rated I-joist banding product. There is approximately a 1/4" sag in the middle of the entrance. I don't think there is adequate support over this opening and further sagging will occur. The home is 10 yrs. old. My instinct is to recommend repairs. Feedback!!!
Originally Posted By: pdickerson This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
If it has a proper rim joist, there should be plenty of strength in the rim to bridge the opening (unless of course there is a butt joint in the rim joist behind the offending i-joist). But if they used plywood for the rim as you suspect, then there may be problem. I doubt it would ever fail, but you might expect to see some deflection. BTW, where is the insulation?
Originally Posted By: dedwards This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I would call it out. First thing I noticed before I even read the post was the sag in the top of the opening. Recommend structural engineer for further analysis. This one could cost some real bucks to someone. Ive never seen plywood used as a rim joist.
Originally Posted By: pdickerson This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Oops. I guess I didn’t notice the AL.
But I did notice that the apparent sag in the sill plate matched the profile of the fence in the distance. I thought maybe it might be a lens effect with the camera. However, Steven did state that there is a 1/4" sag in the plate. This could easily be addressed by retrofitting a header over the opening. I would think a licensed builder could accomplish this using prescriptive methods. Is it really necessary to call in the big guns in this instance?
Originally Posted By: kelliott This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
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This could easily be addressed by retrofitting a header over the opening. I would think a licensed builder could accomplish this using prescriptive methods
What is that opening? is it a full size door? If so, I don't see where you're going to put a header, that won't shorten the door opening to an unusuable size. I think I'd have to go along with calling out the SE on this one, especially if you suspect that's plywood for a rim joist also.
Originally Posted By: dvalley This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
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I don't see where you're going to put a header, that won't shorten the door opening to an unusuable size.
This is a crawlspace opening. A carpenter can definitely install doubled-up 2x6's or 2x8's onto shorter jack studs and it wouldn't affect a any codes on door opening size in this particular area. It appears to be high enough to have this done to this crawl space.
Originally Posted By: mcyr This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Steve, it is obvious there is a sag in this opening, and guess the the remedial action required without sacrificing the access opening would be to add a glue laminated header across the opening.
Sounds difficult, but actually means adding temporary support for two joist and cutting them out, installing the header and joist hangers and the problem is gone.
Two foot spacing on joist support, not used to that around here.
Are those I-joist 11-7/8" ?
Now I see why some of the guys talk about L/240 when I am on a scale of more of L/480. Must be why I do not have problems.
Originally Posted By: rsonneson This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I would write it as follows: slight sagging present at crawlspace opening. Recommend having licensed contractor inspect and repair as needed. Appears that settlement will contiinue if repairs are not made.
Originally Posted By: kshepard This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
It’s inadequate framing. It would be marginal even if it had a proper rim joist. Double the joists on each side of the opening, cut the middle joist back 8"and head it off to the newly-created doublers and add a structural header across the opening to cary the roof load.
