Inquiring about Codes

I would like to ask about the following for a Ryan home built in 2004.
Some pertain to electrical but some are for other areas. This area propably gets the most views so I thought I would post here.

  1. The front GFCI had a waterproof cover but the back just had the metal cover. What year was the bubble cover required?
  2. The interior cover of the air conditioner disconnect box was missing. Is it require to have a interior cover? I think so as the wire and terminals can be contacted.
  3. Is a gas water heater required to have a bonding wire when the home is done in CPVC supply. Also why are some heaters bonded with just the water line and some with gas.
  4. There where no H clips installed at the sheathing and Ryan homes says they seal the house attic so the home owners can not access. I find this to be unusual and noted to inquire with the builder.(I used the picture That GB had in the roofing course)
  5. The sump or sanitary was sealed in the basement. How do you change the pump or test the pump as the owner? (See picture)
  6. When did they start requiring that the condenstae to the drain be selaed?
  7. What is the correct distance for the gutters to slope to the downspout?
    There was evidence of ponding & debris. Only sloped like a inch for about 20 feet. (See picture)
  8. The owner had to tear off the exterior bath vent as birds where infestaing the ducts. Are the exterior vents supposed to have screens or gaurds.(See picture)

Any comments on the stair repairs? (See pictures)

Thanks for answering my questions.
Have a great holiday.


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Even among inspectors/electricians you can get a fight started about bubble covers. If they had a snap cover, would simply note that “unattended” plugs should get a bubble cover.
The water heater should be bonded to the EGC of the igniter circuit. If it is a pilot light model with no electric connection it is OK without bonding on a PVC system.
Sealing the attic may be OK but there can’t be any boxes up there with covers on them.

If you look carefully at the cover for the basin for the submersible sewage pump you will see screw or bolt heads that allow the cover to be taken off to service the pump inside.

On the stairs,

Looks like they removed the original threads from the stringer…Note the “slots” where most likely where the original thread where inserted… Now “glued” heavily with small pieces of 1 by stock to make up for large gap???..

These guys found it easier to glue the snot out of every thing. Instead of completely replacing stringer it must have been cheaper to do this…:shock:

I question the strength of the threads and weight (live load ) capability… Guess the only way you get to stop squeaks is by using PL 400 in large quantities…:D:D:D

Did you get a size idea on the threads??

1x10 :D:D common pine…

Hope the RED comments assist you…WE can get way more detailed in EACH one if you wish…

The NEC was changed in 2002 to ensure all outdoor receptacles not under a roof have the special weatherproof bubble covers. The metal swing covers are only acceptable for outdoor receptacles under a roof, or other wet locations (not outdoors) with attended equipment. See diagrams below from

The interior shield is required. This allows the disconnect plug to be removed without being exposed to live wires. The shield can be replaced (if located/available) or the entire disconnect replaced (more likely).

Water heaters don’t need to be bonded, as they are not “likely to become energized”. All metal piping (including gas piping) must be “bonded”, and if power is supplied to the WH it must be “grounded” by a bare/green circuit wire.

Sheathing H-Clips are not always required … it depends on the sheathing thickness and span. I would also note the inaccessibility of the attic as a concern.

Call a plumber … :slight_smile:

I assume ya mean AC condensate, and I’m not aware of any requirement for it to be sealed. But it must be clear when condensate starts flowing in a secondary line or a shutoff (float) switch can be used.

Should be sloped about 1" for every 15’ to 20’, so that sounds about right. Probably need the gutters, downspouts, and any buried piping/drywells cleaned out.

Hope that helps … :wink:




A strong and squeak resistant stair can be accomplished through the combination of routing, wedging and gluing…granted, that’s a sloppy job but the theory was attempted.

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I dont think they go through the trouble of routing and gluing in a Ryan home, they are generally a cheaper home. Also the risers appear to be Plywood, the grain looks like plywood, and isnt that a stamp?


Once saw Norm on this old house use the same tapered groves, wedges and glue. This is a stair system.