So I need to call out the panel for no main disconnect then?
Just give a general description of the problems, and refer to a licensed electrician. Since the electrician has more authority than a home inspector in Missouri, than let him go through the whole panel himself. If the electrician does not want to do anything, then just get something in writing stating that, this way if the house burns down your head does not roll.
James,
How am I going to know what he decided to do? Why would we be held liable for anything once we refer our client to a qualified electrician?
Yes, it can be called a safety issue.
James,
What about Davids theory that it’s a split buss panel. If that’s the case we would of six throws to cut off power…no?
You will get a mad phone call form somebody because they will claim that you called out something that was not necessary because the electrician said so.
Getting things in writing from the other side does several things:
- If you did not list the defect that the fire marshal claimed and you did not catch caused the fire.
- Your client has somebody to blame when something goes wrong.
- If you are performing an inspection for a government loan, the underwriter will need proof that your claim was over ruled by a higher authority.
I always used the six throws rule myself, whether it was split or otherwise.
My narrative… what do you think?
Multiple defects observed in the main panel. It is recommended that the panel, breakers and conductors be fully evaluated by a qualified electrician. Examples of defects would be red wire not terminated correctly, wires under breaker, missing cover where breaker can be installed, panel not labeled correctly, double tap, missing clamp. Please note this is not an exhaustive list. A complete review by a qualified electrician may lead to more discoveries.
Looks like the 60 Amp breaker on the right is feeding the lower half of the panel. I’m curious Billy, what amperage capacity did you say the system had?
I’m getting ready to say 125AMPS Max. The panel manufacture instructions stated that.
Your meter enclosure says it is only 100 amps. It would need to be a little rectangular to be 125 amps.
hmmm so round 100 rectangular 125
Billy…you’re scaring me.
Round can be 100 or 60 amp (you need to go by the wires in the loop to determine size). Square is also 100 amp. Rectangular is 125-200 (you need to go by wire size of loop to determine size).
Wire size is 100amp Jim I scare myself when it comes to electrical. Hate it. However I’m getting there.
At least he is not afraid to ask questions. Scare away, Billy
I call out as much as I can, but there reaches a point where I want to refer it all. This is my catch-all narrative.
“The house electrical system contains many defects, is outdated, or is in general disrepair and we cannot comment on every instance of each defect because they are too numerous. Electrical upgrades and modifications appear to be amateur and do not meet today’s standards and maintenance of the system has been poor throughout the home. We recommend that a licensed electrician evaluate the entire system, because the cost of bringing the house up to acceptable standards may be considerable.”
The residence is wired with suspect knob-and-tube wiring, which was commonly installed prior to 1950. It is ungrounded and over time the wire’s insulation may become brittle and fall apart or wear thin, resulting in exposed conductors and a risk of shock and/or fire. The hazard is increased by covering it with insulation (a common practice), and incorrectly tapping new wiring into it. The wiring should be evaluated by an electrician and certified as being safe or replaced.
Also, tell them to unplug everything but the smoke alarms. :mrgreen:
The LOCATION(electric/panels) employs obsolete, screw-in, fuses that should be evaluated by an electrician with a view to upgrading the system.