I did an inspection back in September of 2020 the client has contacted me and stated that she was having insulation installed in her attic and the contractor inspected the crawlspace and discovered that the batt insulation was installed upside down and that it is a fire hazard. I am not sure of the fire hazard but, I have pictures to back up that it is definitely installed upside down. and I did not report it being upside down in the report I know that I have made the mistake and am willing to pay for the repair. Are there any forms through InerNACHI that will help me in this process? I want to make this right with her, but I also want to cover my butt. Your suggestions and input will be greatly appreciated.
I would be very careful before admitting claim… I don’t have to tell you that there has always been a debate over insulation direction… even within the insulation industry.
What part of the country?
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What is amazing is that it is still up, in most cases paper backed fiberglass insulation installed with the paper side down becomes waterlogged with condensation then the paper rots or the staples rust, then gravity does it’s thing and soon the batts are laying on the crawlspace floor.
Do your best to deal with it as soon as possible it only gets worse as time drags on. If it were me I’d ask what it would take to make her happy and if it’s reasonable take the 1st offer.
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However you decide to settle, InterNACHI does have a “release” form you need to have the client sign.
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I agree with Peter.
And, one could slice the paper sideways every 12", or so, and get it “breathing”, but if you refer it out, let them decide how to repair it.
Tough lesson…
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Can you share the debate on orientation of insulation?
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This is in Northern California. I haven’t admitted to anything. Just told her I would look at the report and had her send me the insulation companies estimate. Correct me if I’m wrong, but it doesn’t pose a fire hazard. does it?
The insulation company wants to remove it all and reinstall new. $2700.00. I’ll see what it’ll take. I have talked to my lawyer and he is looking into it.
Contact Nick Gromicko at fastreply@InterNACHI.org for help.
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I’m sure it’s the manufactures way of covering their butt. So, essentially it was not installed according to manufactures instructions.
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The following is from the InterNACHI agreement that I use. CYB.
- INSPECTOR assumes no liability for the cost of repair or replacement of unreported defects or deficiencies either current or arising in the future. CLIENT acknowledges that the liability of INSPECTOR, its agents and/or employees, for claims or damages, costs of defense or suit, attorney’s fees and expenses arising out of or related to the INSPECTOR’S negligence or breach of any obligation under this Agreement, including errors and omissions in the inspection or the report, shall be limited to liquidated damages in an amount equal to the fee paid to the INSPECTOR, and this liability shall be exclusive. CLIENT waives any claim for consequential, exemplary, special or incidental damages or for the loss of the use of the home/building. The parties acknowledge that the liquidated damages are not intended as a penalty but are intended (i) to reflect the fact that actual damages may be difficult and impractical to ascertain; (ii) to allocate risk among the INSPECTOR and CLIENT; and (iii) to enable the INSPECTOR to perform the inspection at the stated fee.
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That’s just a deterrent, Nick has even said that. It would never hold up in court.
Yup. Well, you know what they say; contracts are only as good as the characters involved. 
If the crawlspace is dry it shouldn’t make much difference but current best practice is to treat crawlspaces as mini-basements by insulating the walls with foam board, removing floor insulation, making a tight vapor barrier all the way up the walls, sealing the vents and opening up an HVAC register in the space. That might be cheaper than replacing the floor insulation.
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Can you post the pictures from your inspection?
I would question the need to remove the insulation. Is it moldy? Why not just remove the paper facing?
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Or if it’s still in good condition, just flip it. Of course a insulation contractor is going to recommend what works the best for their wallet.
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Because it is attached to the insulation and would likely remove most of the fiberglass as well.
Facings that act as vapor barriers for insulation products are typically created with a layer of asphalt in conjunction with a Kraft paper or foil facing material. The asphalt coating is used both to adhere the layer of thermal insulation to the Kraft paper facing and to provide vapor barrier properties to the paper. **The asphalt layer is applied in molten form and is pressed against the fibrous insulation material before hardening to bond the Kraft facing material to the insulation material.
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It removes a little but with the smallest amount of care you can get it off pretty cleanly.
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Welcome back to our forum Paul Cummins!..Enjoy!