There also should be step flashing on the sidewall running up behind the eave, it looks like they left out the top pieces of step flashing. The flashing should have been installed under the eaves during the framing step making it easier for the roofer and trim guys.
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i think the orientation of the shot is throwing you off. what i believe you are calling the sidewall is actually the soffit.
edit: nope, i see what youre saying now. there is sidewall sheathing exposed.
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Great notes!
Tight areas are hard to navigate as an installer. Good lesson for a junior inspector just starting out.
Thanks Scott.
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I would also question who installed the window blinds if they chipped the glass during installation expansion and contraction could cause a crack ( like a car windshield)
if you were here in Baltimore I would just say possible stray bullet
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I had one of my Anderson windows crack in exactly the same way as shown in your picture. My house and windows are only 7 years old. Company said often no explanation for it, they just crack. Change in temperature or pressure maybe, in my case 40 degrees out that morning so no drastic change in either temperature or pressure. Mine cracked right in front of me one morning, 6:15 am as I walked into the kitchen, I heard a pop, and then a cracking sound, looked up and the upper window was cracking as I watched. Company honored the warranty but I still had to pay $300 for labor to install a new window. Took them less than an hour to replace it, after taking 6 weeks for the new window to come in. So don’t be too concerned with always needing to find an explanation for it, maybe it just happens. Although you have so much other things going on there that maybe they were a potential cause. I don’t think there’s any way to know for sure.
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It is adhered, not supported. It is fine.
(they are not stacked like brick, they are adhered to the side of the wall. In fact, sometimes installed from the top down)
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Yeah, pretty sure the mvma recommends installing from top down to make clean up easier.
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damn, thanks a lot Brian.
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‘Support’ is not limited to, from the bottom of a component as in structural load bearing.
Support: 'bear all of or part of the weight of; to hold up. ‘a thing that bears the weight of something or keeps it upright.’ The wall substrate supports the masonry cladding load.
There are cladding, panel and siding supports. Bonding with adhesives or hangers on a substrate attached to framing.
Morning, Brian.
Manufactured stone veneer, as in brick veneer or as in solid masonry walls?
Manufactured stone veneer can refer to a single wydth course of manufactured stone, not natural stone, as a veneer of single wydth brick wall on a modern timber framed home. Veneer being to operative word and compared to structural masonry walls. I come across manufactured stone veneer, non structural masonry, quite often inspecting buildings.
I think it would be better to describe the material and process as the acronym is spelled, “Adhered Manufactured Stone Veneer” which can be either Manufactured or Natural stone.
Adhered being the operative phrase.
I see two things going on:
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Most wood used in houses is installed green. It then shrinks. This alone could cause the window crack.
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The roof was apparently put on before the stucco or brick work. It was a tiny triangular space and a pain to get into. Likely the workers just did the best they could and figured the rest was OK because of the overhang.
The stonework may be poorly supported. But what I see in the triangular corner looks more like inability to reach the area during installation.
yea, that’s fair. but when there’s a possibility of a rock falling from 20’ above the front entryway, i don’t think the homeowners really care about the difficulty. They should’ve gotten the workers hooked up to a harness system and made it work.
the client has a pregnant wife that walks past that area many times a day. I’d be beyond furious if I were him.
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They should have sequenced the work, so the roof was off until after the stonework was done.
No matter what, this 100% falls on the builder.
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Yea, that makes sense. Thanks for all your help, Bryce!
It is a design problem. To get to the tight part of that angle, you would need a progressively more narrow and tapered tool, just to get to it.
Not enough info on the window from the provided pics.
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No, as in manufactured stone veneer as I stated…not brick veneer or solid masonry walls (neither of the latter apply)