Nailing pipe collar boots

I had a builder today tell me that the boots did not need to be naild on his new construction.
YOu would think since the boots have indent marks for nail placement it should be a no brainer. I have look but cannot find a resource for nailing specifications. ANyone know?

Just recommend it be sealed so wind doesn’t catch it, got to love the ones flopping in the breeze

Here is one that was nailed and sealed and still came loose…
High winds was the likely cause.

I agree with the builder if the roof is shingled and the exposed flashing is no longer than an exposed shingle tab. If you can’t nail through exposed shingle tabs why is OK to nail boot flashing? IMO the nails should be underneath the shingles, but all the roofers nail the exposed bits so I just shut up about it. And like Wayne and Roy say, if there are winds flashing may pull out, but as Wayne points out, nails won’t stop it from happening.

I agree with you Eric. I have installed many a shingle in my day and never once have I nailed the boot at the bottom. I tab the bottom to hold it down but thats it.

Same here but seems like you see them nailed down all the time now and leave the nails exposed.

straight from the manufacture of pipe collars.
Better start nailing, no nails is a no no.

I agree with you Sean we just never nailed the bottom corners :wink:

My issue is, unless i peel up shingles, the only thing I can see is the bottom.

I never really seen a problem with them nailed on the top half and I roofed along the front range and Estes Park Colorado. But I get what your sayin.

And often you can’t see that. Like yesterday.



I never nailed electrical mast of wet stack boots except at the top.
At times I did not nail them at all.

On some roofs prior to placing the boot, you pre-cut the shingles with the boot in place.
Then you remove the boot.
You avoided nailing the shingles to close to the protrusion or one high nail you could ripe back.

You then place bitumen plastic on the underside of the flashing boot and lap the shingles up and over the flashing.
You nailed your shingles but not within 12 plus inches of the protrusion.

If you left a flashing revile for contrast, lets say you where doing open valleys, the revile never got nailed when I was roofing. The aesthetics matched.

I never understood why they put plastic at the cut intersection.
Everything is back caulked with plastic cement.
No way on earth water could penetrate a protrusion on a good job.
It makes the job look more professional.