Need help flashing top of replacement window on brick wall !!!

I recently replaced a window in a basement room on the end of our house. The outside wall is brick veneer over 10" block. The window is set in where it is flush with the outside wall. The window opening is not original to our 1960’s ranch house (crudely chiseled out) and there is no steel lintel above the window … we reinforced the top with dimensional lumber. Anyway, I want to trim the outside of the window and don’t know how to flash above the top trim to keep rain from getting in behind it. This was a problem with the single pane aluminum window we took out … the top of the window opening on the inside was a mess from water penetration. Simply caulking between the trim and the brick is unsightly (our brick has a very rough and uneven texture) and seems to be something that is only temporary with questionable success. Is there a more permanent way to retro flash above the window where you can totally eliminate any chance of water penetration and not have to constantly monitor the window to make sure water is not getting inside the window opening? It would really be great if it also looked professional and not like some yahoo like myself didn’t know what he was doing. I’d provide a photo but I’ve got the window covered with plastic until I figure this out. Thanks for your help in advance!

“Let in” head flashing with sill pan would be the best way to go.
Don’t forget the sides, also.

Thanks, Barry.

Excellent instructions for new construction. Unfortunately, I’m looking for a retro fit. The window in question is behind the black plastic in the attached photo.

House shed roof 1.jpg

Bill, the way to retrofit flashings is to make a 1/2" deep saw kerf with a diamond blade either in your skil saw or 4" angle grinder, fill that with caulk and press in a standard head flashing that has a 3/8" lip bent at 90 degrees. To make the lip, go to the local hvac supply house and ask for a 3/8" folding bar. This will be about $25. Since the folding bar isn’t going to be long enough, bend a 30 and move down overlapping 1" then 60 the same way and then 90. You can repair all the flashings on your house with this system.

This might help. :slight_smile:

Well… it’s been over two years! I wonder if Bill ever figured it out?