New construction house with deck supports in question

6x6 supports …over 50% material removed here…and the left over is being used to support girder…

all of the supports are cut like this.

also ledger board was used instead of joist strapping…

the deck was not bolted to the home, but screws were used. I know simpson strongtie are allowed…took close up pictures of the screw heads to see if could determine what kind they were…but dont think it would identify them…

two screws…spaced 33 inches apart…

Lastly…a couple of the 6x’s were well over 48 inches tall…one being 70 inches…diagonal bracing required?

Ok…looked it up and 6 ft is the max height for a 6x6 before it needs diagonal bracing…so this deck is good for that.

the rules for Notching a post to recess a deck beam are not as clear from what I can find on the interwebs…

These 6x6’s support a deck AND a roof above …so decent amount of loads going on here.

Use this as your guideline of what you saw.


great link…thanks

Not a problem notching the lower support posts. It makes a good connection point.

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On page 10 of this guide it reads in part:
note: Diagonal Bracing is prohibited on center posts.

And I was wondering the reason why it is not allowed? I see diagonal bracing on center posts often even at today’s inspection…

Maybe they think the trolls under the deck will hit there head?

O the gap in the railing is for snow removal. :thinking:

I would still report it as a safety hazard. They can make a removable one, or some such.

And, you are protected. :grin:

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It is my house. I have not got to the stairs, But coming soon before snow flies. :grinning:
I will drop down one step to a platform, Then run the stringers parallel to the deck. :+1:t2:

Not to over stress the center posts. By adding bracing you can transfer more lateral load to the posts and overload them. Why the middle ones? because they already receive more vertical load than the corner posts without any bracing.


Thanks Simon, I also saw that comment on but I am not convinced.

At they built a deck in a seismic zone and used diagonal knee braces on centre columns:

The frame was also reinforced in both directions with knee braces that were fastened to the beams and columns with 1⁄2-inch-diameter HDG all-thread rod.

The frame was also reinforced in both directions with knee braces that were fastened to the beams and columns with 1⁄2-inch-diameter HDG all-thread rod

There are numerous other articles on the web using diagonal braces on centre columns:

Anyway, my report is gone and nothing was mentioned about the diagonal knee braces.

20 years of my life as a carpenter was in S California where they LOVE decks. They’re everywhere. They’re not built to these specs and you just have to know what to look for. Many have rim joist/fascia nailed to joist ends and handrail balusters fastened through the fascia. It comes loose after a while, just like nailed ledgers. Standard practice in certain areas during certain time periods.
This is a good guide for building new decks but I don’t think it’s appropriate for inspecting existing decks. Inspecting existing decks is like inspecting old homes to the modern IRC.

I see numerous problems, including requirements that can’t be confirmed once home/deck is complete. I wouldn’t call out use of zinc lags instead of stainless or galvanized, and how would you confirm lag length, especially in a finished basement?
There are a million decks out there that are not built to these specs that are just fine, or that are aging and the problems need to be identified.

Here, the posts are fine. I would call out the use of screwed ledger unless I could confirm that they were OK (I’d want to see a set of plans specifying them). The missing railing section is no good. For snow removal you install a gate with a latch at a location where you shovel along the length of the boards, not across them. Especially where there’s snow, planking is oriented parallel to the exterior walls, otherwise shoveling is really awkward near the wall.
Never put wood posts in the ground if it can be avoided. Even redwood or cedar.
If a deck has solid sheathing and is fastened to the home it shouldn’t need any bracing at all. To me, a deck needs bracing if I can grab the rail and make it move by rocking it, or if it’s really big and may loosen as it ages. Diagonal braces can also be fastened to the underside of the joists. I think diagonal post braces are attached at corners for aesthetic reasons if intermediate posts are not braced.

There are a lot of ways to build a deck and so I don’t think one standard does it for all decks of all ages.