Notched girder repair--how to?

A typical notched floor girder—notched by a plumber. Is there any way to repair that other than putting a pier directly beneath it?

SEveral ways actually. Sistering of the joist is sometimes possible, or strapping with listed hardware. Simpson produces such a strap.

[FONT=Times New Roman][size=3]I would make no suggestion I would pass this on to a qualified person to make immediate repairs as needed

Jeff, it’s not a joist. It’s a girder (beam).

My other job is the Building Official for a small town. The “qualified contractor” is the one who cut it. It’s up to me to decide if the repair is acceptable.

The same applies to a girder or beam.

In many cases, the load strength can be restored with steel straps or by sistering of the structural member. It really depends on the size/location of the notch and the obstruction placed within the framing member.

I think the writeup should include the need for the builder to supply an engineers document that shows the repair is adequate. Even with regular lumber as opposed to engineered products there are numbers to crunch based on the application, span, wood type, other loads present etc…

Depending on where the notch is and extent , one can use a flitch plate bolted to the beam.

A jack is installed under the mid-span of the weakened beam and create an upward camber of about 1/4", caution needed to not over camber.

A 1/4" thick flitch plate same size in depth of the girder or beam is installed on one side or two sides depending on the stregth required to make the repair. 5/8" 307 bolts are used to bolt through the plates and beam in an alternate pattern and the jack is removed.
Size of notch and span affected determines the length of the flitch plate.

Adding an extra member on each side of the beam will also work, but the ends of the sisters should land at a lolly column support on each end to be effective.

Hope this helps. :slight_smile:

There are many methods of repair depending on the specifics and having the “one who cut it” supply an adequate “sealed” repair is how it is done around here, typically.

I am a home Inspector and showing telling or doing this as a home Inspector ,I feel could lead to Concerns later .

I agree. But wouldn’t it be interesting to know? :wink:

What is a “sealed” repair?

It helps Marcel and I appreciate it. But it still a little vague.

“One or two sides”? How do you determine whether one or two.

What is the length of the plate beyond the cut?

Can the repair be done when the cut is in the middle 3rd of the girder?

Got any photos/illustrations?

I’m still struggling with this issue and lean toward: if there is no pier, then an engineer has to design it.


Do you have a picture of the girder in question?

I am sure a flitch plate would be appropriate however without seeing the notching, its to really make any recommendations.

I know in most counties they wouldn’t even waste time or energy on it…simply make the builder provide a letter.

No photo. Picture this:

It was a main girder (triple girder I think). Has a 2” plumbing pipe coming through it diagonally. About ¼” of the outside board is cut out for the pipe. As I recall, it’s in the middle 3rd of the girder also.

Is the distance between the girders 6 ft (that typical) and are the girders a 2x10?
Where is the notch in relation to the closest pier?

…an engineer’s sealed letter of repair.

That is good stuff Marcel - Thanks :slight_smile:

You have to remember that a “good” repair for a cut girder on a one story house may be a “bad” repair if the same damage and same repair is on a two story house. House plans would be necessary, but in their absence, most engineers would specify a repair that was overkill enough to handle whatever loads might be on that beam.

Joe, there are different installation methods of flitch plates, sometimes they are sandwiched inbetween multiple beam built up girders.

What I was talking about is something like the pictures below where the beams are overspanned, and broke in the middle due to a hole drilled for a light.
I also have a string to show the deflection, if you look close. The beam is also over spanned, framed in the wrong direction and broken at the light.
This is what I done to fix it.

Those beams were 5x8’s but were spaning 23 ‘. Built by log cutters that did not have a clue and been there for 25 years without the collapes. Thank god they were smart enough to get rid of the water bed they had upstairs.
I had asked for 1/4" plates 10" long, but brought me 5/16" plates by 8’ which were to short for me. But still work and the sag remained at 3/8".

That floor was sagging 1-1/2" strong.




Hope this helps understand how it works.

Determining size, length, and bolt pattern comes from years in the field. :slight_smile: