Originally Posted By: Steven Brewster This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Does anyone have any ideas why they painted this homes floor framing. The home is 6 yrs. old, no signs of fire, or significant water in the crawlspace. An addition was built on one end of the home not to long ago. Got to have been the cleanest crawlspace I have seen in a while.
Originally Posted By: jhagarty This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Appears to be some moisture as the nail heads on the bridging of the joists are showing corrosion thru the paint. Any disclosure to go along with the property with regard to a history of Water or Mold?
Anti-Fungal Painting appears to be part of a Mold or Water abatement.
Originally Posted By: mcyr This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Steve;
The painting looks good, but I would question the block support with all those shims, and spacing of the joist supports in excess of four feet and the loose wires dangling all over.
The double 2" x 4" plates suppose to be joist supports?
Originally Posted By: Steven Brewster This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Marcel,
The span on the joist that are supported by the 4" x 4" are within normal span limits. I think they installed the bracing to prevent a bouncy floor. The roof is trussed so therefore the joist only support the load of the floor. As mentioned, there did not appear to be a significant moisture problem in the crawlspace, but we haven't had a good rain in several weeks. Will inquire if there is a disclosure statement by the seller.
Originally Posted By: gbeaumont This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Hi to all,
I am with my learned friend Mr Haggarty on this one, it looks like moisture prevention measures, as Joe stated you can see some rusting of the nailheads, but also look at the signs of moisture in the block walls.
Originally Posted By: dedwards This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I know it isn’t the original question but I noticed a significant drop on one of the main Drain lines in the second photo that could cause some problems. I have to agree with the other posts. I too notice the rusted nail heads in the first photo and my first thoughts were they were using a paint with antifugal or a mildewicide additive to combat a potential mold problem. The blocks do show signs of moisture.
Originally Posted By: mcyr This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I guess I am not looking at the same picture as everyone else.
What I thought was a double plate prop was in fact the illusion of the check crack in the 4" x 4" as you mentioned was used.
I fail to comment on moisture of the block work, because I don't see block work.
Supporting the joist mid-span only tells me that it was undersized and did not meet code to the L/360. The CMU with shims and shimming at the intermediate supports do not quite meet the standard of practice in floor framing construction.
The rust that you see on the wood bridging that was added for lateral bracing and added component to the diaphragm of the floor assembly, was caused by painting the exposed framing members with a latex based paint. Does it every time. Moisture in the paint reacts with the metal like moisture does on any metal.
The plumbing also annoys me to the fact that I guess this plumber did not believe in using plumbing wye's. A three inch waste should not dump at 90 degrees into the main, and all branch lines should intercept the main with the flow as the two inch branch shown dumping in a sanitary tee.
I am sure some plumbers will correct me out there, but I am just talking off the cuff on this one. (Logic. )
Hopefully, you called this one out as you saw it and needs attention and recommendation of professional contractors.
Originally Posted By: Steven Brewster This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Yes Marcel,
I recommended all the above. This is the same house with the S-trap fixture drains. As mentioned in that post, many deficiencies for a 5 yr. old home. Amateur workmanship, incorrect fitting used on drainlines (sani t on back) etc.
The interesting thing is I can't locate a code ref. for the nose diving drain pipe. Talked to several plumber friends of mine and they could not pin point a code ref. but said it was just understood rule of thumb that you don't do that. Seem to me the liquid would out run the solids.
The span for the floor joist is more than adequate (2" x 10" 16" o.c. 13' span).
Originally Posted By: Steven Brewster This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Andrew,
I have read the chart P3005.4.2 but I dont read it as a max slope, just a minimum. I may be off base in my interpretation. Thanks for the input, just was not sure how to interpret the code. I see this type slope on drain pipes often.
Originally Posted By: rcloyd This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
The 4x4 beam is overspanned as evidenced by the deflection visible in the photo. Someone has tried to correct the sagging floor (which rests upon the beam) by installing shims beneath the low joists. The beam should be replaced or re-inforced and supported properly on solid blocking or metal shims.
Originally Posted By: Steven Brewster This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Andrew,
Now you understand my concerns. I cant get a plumber to commit to a code that states the max slope.....So, well, I guess..... its ok? My inclination is that the slopes/IRC should be maintained as close as possible to the table aforementioned.
Originally Posted By: mcyr This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Steve;
My understanding of the code on pitch is that 1/4" per foot is and has been chosen as code for the proper pitch for soil and sewer pipes and laterals. Coming out of a residence and if the pipe size were to be increased to 6" then the slope could conceivably be reduced to 1/2% pitch. On a 4" sewer pipe to the street no less than 1% pitch is required.
All internal sewer pipes and laterals must maintain 2% pitch.
There is a controversy as to what is acceptable through Plumbing Inspectors, though, as they do not control the codes outside the house in this area.
Having pitch in excess is and has always been thought of as too much pitch will get the liquids out and the solids tend to stay behind. Common sense and a little physics will prove this accurate.
Originally Posted By: Monte Lunde This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Just a question " what about the second story bathroom"?
I always thought that you had to use TWO 45 degree instead of a ONE 90 degree for any turn (vertical to horizontal line or a horizontal to vertical line) when plumbing a sewer line and then the horizontal line has to have a minimum slope of a 1/4" per ft.
-- Monte Lunde CCI, CCPM, CRI
Viking Construction Services Inc.
Originally Posted By: mcyr This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Monte;
I would not imagine that wether a toilet is on the second floor or the first floor would make any difference.
As long as the main distribution line is accessed with the proper wye for discharge, I do not see a problem.
