Note the amount of unsupported sill plate extending beyond the foundation walls. The two problem foundation walls are leaning in at the top, in addition to a very bad pour. The builder was planning to support the sill with the brick veneer, they actually built the veneer out away from the foundation to compensate for the foundation issues. Recommended review by a licensed engineer and a field meeting with the county inspector. Builder also installed 20 year roofing shingles, the client paid for 30 year architectural shingles. Builders recommendation: Install 30 year foor over the 20 year roof! New home with layered roof! I told the clients, not to give in, demand a complete removal and replacement.
Those mortar joints do not appear to be regulation either. Looks like the mortar was squeezed into the front but does not go all the way through under and in between the bricks, then was tuck pointed with the stubby end of their finger to make it look right. No brick ties of any kind in sight either to tie the two walls together.
That window is going to leak.
Where is the damproofing and the weep holes?
Looks like the mitered right corner is out of plumb and don’t see and ties on the corner either, but maybe they are there, picture is a little small.
Good recommendations, John!
What Doug and Marcel said.
How can anyone stupid enough to perform work like that actually get work these days? Low bid, obviously. I guess the person who hires them must be equally stupid.
Also…shingle manufacturer’s warranties often specify installation over an acceptable substrate. An existing layer of shingles will usually not meet the definition of an “aceptable substrate”, meaning that there’s a good chance that adding the second layer would void the manufacturer’s warranty of the new 30-year shingles.
Also, there can be a BIG difference in price between 20-year 3-tab shingles and good quality architectural shingles. The buyer should get what they paid for.
Home “constructed” by a national builder. I had a buyer that walked away from a home following my final walk through inspection, same builder. Yes, the window installation is a mess, I did call for complete re-installation with proper treated framing and flashing following foundation repairs. There are weep openings at other walls not shown. Weeps were discussed on site.
That might not be necessaryly required by code David, but a standard of practice to do so in this example.
RESISTANCE TO MOISTURE PENETRATION
No single unreinforced 4" wythe of masonry is totally impervious to moisture penetration. A cavity wall is designed and built as a moisture-deterrent system. This system takes into account the possible moisture penetration through the outer wythe. Moisture will penetrate masonry walls where hairline cracks exist between masonry unit and mortar. Water which runs down the exterior wall surface will be drawn towards the inner cavity due to wind pressure exerted on the exterior of the wall and the negative pressure present within the cavity. Providing a clean air space will allow this moisture to flow unobstructed down the cavity face of the outer wythe. Flashing installed at recommended locations will then divert this moisture back to the building’s exterior through weepholes. Proper drainage of moisture will reduce the chance of efflorescence and freeze-thaw damage.
That peel n stick membrane around the windows is a joke. Apparently this contractor does not understand the principle or can’t follow the directions. It is not sealing anything and furthermore is in small pieces cobbled together with nails penetrating the material creating openings all around the perimeter of the windows. He is creating more of a problem than solving or avoiding one. He ought to be made to wear the “coat of shame.”
The buyers and myself will try to meet with the local inspector on Monday. Will keep you posted. It is amazing that the county approved the framing inspection with 3/4 of the sill plate unsupported. Not to mention the other “workmanship” issues.