I was in an attic today and the rafters running to the center board ( ridge ) were in contact with the board as normal…However, on the other side the rafters down about 15-20 along the center of the house stopped about 2" short of reaching the ridge board…so to make it reach they nailed on 1’ blocks to make up the last 2" and nailed them to the joists down every one…
Now this was done years ago, no signs of sagging…and while I did see a whole house exhaust fan directly in the center of the area in the main floors ceiling…that should not effect the fact the roof rafters holding the roof do not contact the center board correctly…
Far from the standard of practice, wouldn’t you think?
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*Hope they don’t get 2’ of snow on the roof, they are at the mercy of the nails of the scap and fatigue over the years will win. *
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*This roof system that looks like a 4 to 6 inch slope is at the mercy of the shear of the nails used and eventually will let go. *
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*It is not right would be the answer. *
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*Marcel *
I agree…I told the buyer this…and his reply was…heck I am old Paul…I will be dead before it is a concern of mine…I said…oh well…it is in my report so thats up to you…
So the guy loved me…but did not care about any concerns I reported…wants to buy the house anyway without suggesting the buyer fix anything…go figure…lol
I tell you…the guy was about the nicest man I have ever met on a inspection. Really cared about the house and I think he will get the things I mentioned looked at…but regardless I could tell he really wanted the house and so I am happy for him…overall the issues can be corrected if he chooses to do so.
Why didn’t they just add another block between the ridge board and the rafter to take up the void instead of sistering a piece of wood against the rafter. The rafters on that side of the house are bearing on nails instead of wood. I would want to make a big deal of it. If this is what you can see , who knows what you can’t see. With that said , I would want to add a block to take up that void between the rafter and the ridge.
The ridge board is also under-sized and should be the next size up so that the rafters bear fully on.
The rafters look to be 2x6. The ridge board in this case should be 2x8.
In the case of the image above...even if it was a 2x8 the rafter would not reach the ridge board.....this was done all down the left side for about 20 rafters.....
Agreed the depth of the ridge board should match the cut end of the rafter for full bearing and nailing. The question is how well the sistered piece is secured to the rafter end. If straight nailed it provides little strength to the joint. The strength of the roof is more the rafters bearing against each other. The ridge board only provides a nailing surface and prevents lateral movement while providing a straight horizontal line for the rafter ends.
Some house are built without ridge boards.
I would write it up as “nonconventional framing” and look for how well the nailing secures everything together. If it appears weak - recommend evaluation by a structural engineer.
A better way might have been to sister a board to the ridge board and then secure the rafter ends to this “doubled ridge”, where they are short.
The ridgeboard in conventional framing of a roof provides very little lateral stability in the struture, it provides ease in the framing of the strurture.
The sheathing will provide the lateral moment creating a diaphram.
Trusses will not have ridge boards but require some sort of lateral bracing as required by the Truss Manufacturer.
The rafters in conventional framing are in compression and the collar ties are in tension. If a knee wall is provided, then lateral bracing could be added to provide counteraction to movement.
Marcel is correct. Depencding on the pitch of the roof, the ridge may serve as little more than a spacer or nailer, and some homes are constructed without a ridge beam.
In lower sloping roof structures, a ridge may serve as an actual supporting member.
There is nothing wrong with the framing in the photo.
