This is a typical water heating system. The hose on the top right is the supply line and the hose on the left is the hot water line with an expansion tank attached to hold any excess hot water that is a result of excess pressure in the tank. The source of heat is electric power.
The Water Heater provides hot water to the property sinks, bathtubs, showers and clothes washer by heating supplied cold water with a gas fired burner at the bottom of the heater. An Anode Rod inside the tank controls the chemical reaction in the water and keeps it from attacking the tank insides. A TPR Valve limits the water temperature and is designed to release pressure from the tank if the water becomes too hot and allows the water to be drained out and down through a Discharge Pipe terminating near a floor drain.
Most people take their water heater for granted and never give a thought to how hot water comes out of their faucets when they turn them on. The easiest step any homeowner can perform in maintaining a water heater is to drain the heater at least once a year. This will help remove the sediment that collects at the bottom of the heater through time and use which will help the heater heat water more efficiently.
In the photo above is a picture of a water closet. I flushed the water closet to make sure there were no leaks coming from the base and made sure the toilet refilled without any trouble. There seems to be no cracks present and the toilet was secured to floor properly on either side of the fixture.
After reading the article “water heater expansion tanks” there were a few things i learned. First, inspectors should always remember to check to make sure the expansion tank is high enough so that the water can easily drain back into the water heater. It is always important to check to make sure the tank is not leaking or corroded and if positioned horizontally, it should have additional support so it does not put strain on the piping.
Hot Water Heater - In the attached photo, the pressure relief valve extension is missing, which is a Safety Concern. Every water heater is required to have a pressure relief valve within the top 6" and an extension that is between 4-6" of the floor.
Bathroom ventilation systems are designed to exhaust odors and moist air to the home’s exterior. Typical systems consist of a ceiling fan unit connected to a duct that exits at the roof.The most common defect of the bathroom ventilation systems is improper termination of the vent duct. Vents must exit to the outside of the home.
Reading about common plumbing terms and some of the diagrams provided. Under Elements of a plumbing system, I thought the corporation stop and the meter stop were the only valves into a residential structure. But, I found out that there is also a curb stop. Im going to have to look a bit and see if I can start seeing those. Very neat stuff learning about all of this.
The air-admittance valve here is on the riser for a drain for a clothes washing machine. the location of this washer does not provide for the option of an exhaust through the roof. The one way valve allows for air to enter the plumbing system and protect the traps from siphonage.
The under sink photo above had alot going on. In this fairly recent installation there is a garbage disposal, dish washer connection, hose connection and a water filtration system.
There is no evidence of any leaks or prior problems. The garbage disposal is attached to the 3" sink drain. It receives the drain from the dishwasher which was installed with the required 'high loop’and empties into the
1 1/2" drain that exits the cabinet. The ‘P’ trap has a sufficient water trap within the appropriate 2"-4" range. The disposal is activated by a solenoid button switch which is mounted flush on the countertop.
Although the water filter is not part of the SOP it does appear to be properly connected to the cold water side. It is,however, resting on a temporary block which should be replaced to avoid collapse.
The hot and cold for the sink faucet and the hot for the dishwasher are separate shut off valves.
Upon entering a crawlspace I observed a sewer line that was corroded, cracked and open to the elements. All the other plumbing had bee updated but this was overlooked. The component was reported and repair by a professional was recommended.
I found an article titled “Plumbing Terms”. I printed it out and will have it with me on inspections. I have noticed the younger generation likes to “google” things to find their meaning instead of taking someones work for it. Now I can pull this out and show them if I need to.
Polybutylene for Inspectors
Polybutylene (PB) was an inexpensive alternative to conventional piping from 1978-mid 1995. It was flexible, easy to install and resisted freezing. It’s production was halted in mid-1996 due to allegations surrounding failures and the subsequent property damage. PB usually fails at the connections, it can also flake and disintegrate on the inside, eventually cracking.
Manufacturers claimed that most failures were due to improper installation, however, they paid out nearly a billion dollars in claims.
There are no mandatory regulations requiring the replacement of PB. It is , however, highly recommended that it be replaced with other acceptable material. There is a feeling of when, not if it will fail. Replacing PB may be expensive, but, it can be a better solution than the alternative.
Usually grey in color, PB can often be noticed by inspectors stubbed out in walls or overhead in basements. PB2110 will be stamped on the pipe. It should not have been used in vents, drains or waste piping. It should not be confused with other ‘plastic’ pipes like pex, pvc, cpvc or polyethylene.
Although not required, if PB is detected it should be noted for evaluation by a plumbing professional
The main water shut off was not readily visible. It is recommended that the shut off be located and or management should show the location of the shut off in the event of a leak.
The water heather TPR drain line used for the water heater is not to be flexible and able to be crimped
and is running uphill or has a loop in it. The pipe should be a smooth wall pipe. A licensed plumber should be consulted and or should repair as needed for safety.
Water heater expansion tanks need to be checked for proper placement, for proper supportor or strapping to ensure there is not improper weight or stress on the pipes that connct to the water heater. Also look for signs of corrosion, such as rust, and for any water leaks.
This is a picture f a hot water heater. It uses electricity as a heat source. It has a tpr valve that is properly sized and terminates 6 inches from the floor. The is exactly how we want to see it.
In this photo we see the bottom of discharge pipe for a TPR valve. The inspection of the water heater showed no signs of concern and no defects were noted, but I felt a picture and explanation to the client that a lack of a drain beneath the TPR valve could lead to flooding of the room the water heater was in and the potential for water damage.
I read the article “Inspecting Aluminum Wiring” ,by Nick Gromicko and Kenton Shepard. This article outlines the dangers of aluminum wiring, how to spot aluminium wiring, and how to repair the problems associated with aluminum wiring. I learned the best method is to remove and replace aluminum wiring with copper wiring. The article also warned that it is tough even for an electrician to spot. It suggests using an electrician familiar with spotting it for repairs.
The article I read was ‘Backflow Prevention’. This article goes into detail about different backflow prevention systems for very simplistic to more advanced, depending on the system it is protecting against backflow. From small, inexpensive, simple designs like AVBs designed for residential units to more complicated systems like PRs, double check valves and pressure vacuum breakers this article makes it easy to see the range of these device’s complexity, as well as its very important function.
