Gutter appears to have no what is called an drip edge to reduce water intrusion into wood of property
Recommended best practice to have installed.
Defect shows no drip edge, as well the chimney stack is under min standard of 3 ’
The International Residential Code (IRC) specifies minimum requirements for chimney construction, including clearances, height above the roof, and flue size. For residential chimneys, the IRC requires a minimum 3-foot height above the roof and 2 feet higher than any nearby obstruction. Clearances to combustible materials are also mandated, with a minimum of 2 inches for chimneys within the building and 1 inch for those outside.
It sure looks like it has a drip edge. Also, is that chimney even in use? It looks like it is falling apart! Also, it looks like you are in Alberta Canada, so I would not be using the IRC. You should be referencing the Candian National Building Code-Alberta Eddition.
I work in the building department, and we reframe from quoting code. There always changing and Municipalities have different code. The Florida building code is very different from the IRC or the IBC.
Morning, Tony. Hope to find you well and in good spirits today fellow Edmonton Alberta InterNACHI member.
I see you are practicing to write up a report.
Personally, I like the TIME & WEATHER illustration.
So I take it this would be the Roofing Section and your a describing defects and deficiencies therein.
Remember the 3 rule:
1: OBSERVATIONS. Simply/clearly describe the component, system or area.
2: RECOMMENDATIONS. Recommend the licensed professional for that defect or deficiency you described.
3: LIMITATIONS. Explain when you could not visually assess, in other words inspect, a component.
That InspectApedia illustration is wrong, Tony. There should be a vapour barrier or Ice Shield under the Drip Edge flashing on the eave side. Either-Or…
I rewrote your explanation paragraph. I hope you do not mind.
The beginning or the start of the roof deck sheathing, at the bottom of the roof deck at the eaves, does not appear to have a proper drip edge flashing applied, to reduce water tension, as well as to act as a capillary break to prevent water from defying gravity. Typically/usually/normally, drip edge flashing folds over the flat sections of rain gutter pans to ensure rainwater or snow melt water enters the gutters while prohibiting spill water from contacting building component in back of the gutter pans, fascia boards or continue under eaves onto soffits.
Recommend a licensed roofing contractor further evaluate the area of concern, the beginning of the roof sheathing, install drip edge flashing at the first signs of adverse conditions.
The photo shows: 1: Defect no drip edge flashing plus, 2: poor chimney clearance.
For Chimney clearance. A common guideline is the “3-2-10 rule” 3 feet above its point of contact with the roof and 2 feet above any part of the roof or structure within 10 feet horizontally.
Morning, Jeff. Hope to find you well and in good spirits today.
Lets start off with, Roof Drip Edge flashing. Personally, I do not consider that fabricate aluminum a Roof Drip Edge flashing.
Roof Drip Edge flashing is described as, a metal flashing installed at the edges of a roof, that primarily function is to direct water away from the fascia board and underlying roof components, thus preventing water damage and structural issues. It essentially creates a barrier to keep water from seeping into the roof structure like a capillary break to prevent water from defying gravity and moving upstream, thus potentially causing issues like rot, mold, or damage to the roof sheathing, eaves or other structural roof members.
Here is a zoomed image or the metal and facia board. You can plainly see the fascia and the metal. The metal is not shaped to divert water. There is not capillary break. Nor is there an 2" inch apron at the bottom.
What the hell are you talking about? The drip edge is kicked out, creating the water to be directed away. How do you know there is no capillary break? Where are you seeing the requirement for a 2" apron? IRC says that the apron should be at least 1/4" below the roof sheathing and returned back onto the sheathing of no less than 2".
If you look at the green stains on the eave’s fascia. I would equate that to mold. As well, the bottom of the drip edge flashing should have an 2" inch long apron flashing to conceal the wood fascia board and act as flashing for the gutter pan. You should see no fascia except for below the gutters.
If I’m seeing the situation correctly, I must disagree. It looks like the drip edge does not hang into the gutter. In that case, water will wick behind the gutter and the wood fascia will be perpetually wet.
In my area, we refer to the proper flashing as “gutter apron.” It is longer than regular drip edge so that it hangs into the gutter. If drip edge is installed instead of gutter apron, then simple flat metal flashing can be used as well. Simply slide it behind the drip edge, and have it hang to the interior of the gutter. Fasten as needed.
That is what the capillary break does. It creates flanged line (drip edge) that water clings to then drops into the gutter, off of a chimney sidewall etc.
A gutter apron is a good idea, especially on long gutter runs where the gutter drops down below the flange angle of the drip edge flashing. I have no resistance to that metal, but is not used in my area. A good coat of paint should protect the wood from anything that does not drop from the flange properly.
In retrospection, a little drip edge gap off the fascia would be helpful, in this case it may go behind the gutter.
Personally, I wouldn’t rely on that little flanged edge. Here is just a quick pic I found online. It’s fine when there is no gutter. But with a gutter, that wood fascia is just going to be moist all the time, in my opinion.
I would agree it is an issue if I consistently saw the damage. But I don’t. The issue is when the drip edge flashing is missing, gutters are clogged or not sloped properly. Seepage vs bulk water flow are different animals. You slow water down and it will climb Mt. Everest. Also, that little turn down on the flange is defeating the system.
On many mornings in my area, we have a thin coating of frost on the roof in the shoulder seasons (spring/fall). When the frost starts to melt, it runs very slowly off the roof. As you said, less velocity, more potential for problems in this area. Also, we get slow water runs at times during snow melt.
Very good software Brian. Love the annotations you can drop in.
My opinion only remember. The photo is blurry.
The capillary break, the flange you are referring to first is too short, secondly appears nothing more than a return hem or sheet metal return to add rigidity to the thin piece of sheet metal, and thirdly that hem looks flat against the fascia and will possibly act causing capillary action, liquid flowing in a narrow space without the assistance of external forces like gravity, an effect you are try to avoid.
