Yes, agree that the aluminum could be cut longer but there is no way of really telling. Thanks for the answers.
I see that there will be a large amount of water from the two valleys and and that there are no gutters. Where is all that water going? Do you have other pictures?
Recommending gutters. The other pics look similar. I was unable to look behind them very well with the soffits to view what’s actually going on.
That’s because most builders today learned the trade from youtube. They don’t want to take advice from someone that has been in the trade for 45 years. I let them fall into their own trap and walk away.
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It could have been protected/separated with flashing under the wood fascia where it makes contact.
This was a pre-drywall inspection from today.
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That is nice and something I can’t say I see in our area(Nashville TN).
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I’m in a pickle over these gable ends and I’ve had a number of roofers come out and give me varying opinions of what to do with them. Mine are exactly like these pictures and I have 3 of them, one is a false gable nailed on top of the OSB roofing perp to the ridge, the other two are at the end of the trusses and extend out onto a hip roof. They all have 16" soffits with no outriggers or ladders. The end barge boards are 2x6 with the ends nailed down to the roof. I’ve tried everything and they always leak in a storm. The last roofer said to cut the barge board ends free from the roof and create a gap and run the roofing underneath. Not sure if he wanted to cut away the OSB all the way to the wall face and let the soffit just float. If I had some good outriggers it might be ok. I think that cutting the barge boards loose and just held from the top by the OSB will be a problem although it would finally be sealed (maybe). If I ran an angled outrigger to support the end of the barge boards, I could also cap the bottom of the soffit with a piece of pressure treated wood. Not sure.
Cutting the fascia to where it has a 1” clearance from the shingles is what your looking for. To make it look a little nicer and to close any openings to the soffit area , a separate flashing placed behind the fascia and secured under the shingle seems to be the correct way to address this. I believe some examples are listed above.
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No. Imposable to do. Roof planes move independently.
1: I think there should be proper clearance from the roof deck. 2: I think there should be a return hem on the fascia cladding and drip edge. This keeps the fascia shape firm/ridged and prevents any mechanical damage on the shingles below.
Just my 2 cents.
PS: I write them up like that.
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deleted my rant twice where I cut the whole thing off … what if we remove the facia board (2x6 for me) and trim it back a couple of inches where it touches the roof surface parallel to the existing end cut and roof surface. We screw a piece of plastic board (pvc or upvc) on the end and end up with a 1" gap and waterproof edge. We have to do something with the OSB (or plywood) roofing edge and we take out a piece there and add something 1/2" thick (waterproof) and screw it to the edge of the facia board. We also cut the 1" wide notch in that so the roofing can just pass right under and lay over our new undercut hip line.
Now we need to re-support the 2x6 facia above the new gap. We cut a 2x10 so it fits the inside corner (all angles) side to side and front to back (trim all the edges). We make 2 of them for each side (2 left and 2 right). They will fit perfectly inside the soffit flat on the roof (after being trimmed) two boards stacked. Now we cut a few inches off of the end of the bottom board on each side to match our undercut and even cut it back at a 45 deg angle so the roofing can rise up a little on it. The 2x6 facia fastens to the top board (like an outrigger). Can you see it, any additions or problems so far?
It’s kind of a flashing nightmare, makes me want to be creative with fiberglass or something (think boat).
Yea, I like the way you think.
That was my thoughts also. Proper flashing and you wouldn’t have any leakage.
I think you should be able to support it just a little higher up, but just not on the roof.
The damage that takes place in this area seems to grow exponentially before the home owner notices it.
If properly built, it shouldn’t need any support.
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