Does anyone know of any documentation on multiple taps to a Square D circuit breaker? For example newer breakers have an indent on either side of the screw whereas the slightly older don’t and I often see 2 wires terminating on one side of the screw, rather than on opposing sides of the screw.
-B
What you described sounds like a no no. This is a good article.
https://inspectapedia.com/electric/Double-tapped-circuit-breakers.php
Here is an example, there were also newer Square Ds with double taps but all to one side of the screw.
If it has a saddle clamp it’s OK.
Documentation? Don’t know
Your photo is a defect in my book all day long.
Agreed - I just wasn’t sure if there was some documentation on the actual termination of the wires beneath the saddle clamp.
The circuit breakers in post #3 are Square D QO. There should be a symbol on the CB like the one that Marc posted. Although Marc’s CB’s are Sq D Homeline series the terminals on the QO should be similar.
The information is on the breaker.
Square D and Cutler-Hammer both offer molded case breakers. There are 2 places to terminate circuits.
That was actually helpful. Thanks Robert. I was looking for something online in a perfect world but that’ll do.
My pleasure, Brandon.
I will try to return to the thread to give some information on how to behind terminating more than one circuit, extending a circuit, on molded case breakers.
I hope I explained myself properly. George Wells is a great resource.
Even though the breakers allows for two wires, I still point out to the client that only an electrician will be able to determine if the breaker can support the load of both the circuits attached.
There’s only one circuit. There’s no need to second-guess the design of the electrical system.
Marc and Robert: Thank you both. Great references. I learned something today, and that is why I read these threads, so that I can learn from inspectors who are more experienced. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience with me / us.
“Square D and Eaton/Cutler Hammer both manufacture breakers that are rated to accept two wires (double taps). When two wires are allowed a tiny graphic of two wires will be visible at the front or side of the breaker.”
So, the lesson is, before we call out a double tapped breaker, carefully read the label of the breaker to be sure it says “single pole”. If it does, the breaker is double tapped. If it says, or graphically shows that double pole / taps are acceptable, then that breaker is OK to have two conductors attached to a single screwed down connection point.
Thanks again.
Just a suggestion on the terminology, a single pole and a double pole describe two different types of circuit breakers. Better wording would be that the CB is suitable for a single conductor or two conductors.
A single pole breaker would be for a 120 volt circuit a double pole would be for a 240 or a 120/240 circuit. It has nothing to do with the number of conductors allowed.
That makes no sense. You never have any idea from the breaker panel how many splices, junction boxes or loads are present on a given breaker. All the (legal) two wire breaker shows you is there are at least two downstream devices.
Worrying the homeowner/buyer/realtor for wire count seems pointless.
Breaker flipping is what says a circuit has too much load, and that can change from day to day and depending on who is home. Plug in three space heaters in one room? Grow lights? You just can’t count wires or devices and know anything about load.
I agree. About the only time a visual check of the conductors will tell you something is incorrect is when there is an individual branch circuit dedicated for a specific piece of equipment that cannot have anything else on that circuit. So two conductors on something like the branch circuit breaker feeding an AC unit would be something worth noting.
I’m probably wrong but I think the electrician did a smart thing. The one sided red/black double tap wires appear to be stranded of differing sizes, so probably best they share one side rather than either side??
I could be wrong, but I think stranded conductors may not be allowed for use in saddled breakers for that exact, and other, reason(s)!
To continue this thread, as I think the subject is important, and many inspectors repeatedly get it wrong…
Conversationally…
Considering that both scenarios below are wrong… which is ‘more’ dangerous…??
