And there is more Simpson hardware in the link at the bottom. of the article.
Stair Stringer Attachment
How you attach the stair stringers to the top of the deck and to any landings will be critical. You should reinforce the rim behind the stairs to provide a solid base for attachment. Use positive connections to install stair stringers using joist hangers or angled brackets to the front face to provide adequate support.
If your first tread steps down from the deck you must extend the rim joist to create a solid surface below the deck rim to attach to. You should attach a 2x6 or 2x8 under the rim flush to the bottom of the stringer using strap ties or bolted cleats for added strength. You may also want to use metal strap ties that can bend along the bottom of the stringer and over the top of the rim joist for added support.
Attaching to the top of a landing offers a similar situation in which you should always maintain a solid face connection.
For attaching stair stringers to the deck, the LSU26Z field slopeable joist hanger by Simpson Strong-Tie is a good choice. The hanger is sloped and skewed during installation to fit most stair projects. The LSU26Z has a ZMAX® coating for additional corrosion resistance and can be sloped up or down and skewed left or right up to 45°.
Stair treads also must be properly connected to the stringers in order to support the weight of your deck. The TA9Z and TA10Z staircase angles by Simpson Strong-Tie provide the needed stair tread-to-stringer support and eliminate costly conventional notching. The angle installs at each end of the stair tread with ¼-inch x 1 ½-inch Simpson Strong-Tie Strong-Drive® screws (SDS) and has a ZMAX® coating for additional corrosion resistance.
That is a good graphic Larry, and that is the way it gets done.
I tried to find a picture of mine this morning and could not find it.
I do mine all out of wood with joist hangers (adjustable pitch) along with double rim joist.
If I find it, I will post it for all.
The picture that Bob posted will not go anywhere, but is not a proper way aesthetically to do it.
First the plywood should be PT.
Does not look right, and to answer Bob’s question, no, the stringer does not have enough plumb cut to attach to the rim joist or joist to support it without the hangers or drop down header to allow for proper attachment with the adjustable rafter hangers. A stair stringer is similar to a rafter and laid out in the same fashion.
I have repaired the damage caused by poor construction and improper repairs from someone just trying to get by for a little longer until they have the money to fix it right. When it becomes a safety issue like the one below someone could get hurt and that’s not good for anyone. Poor design and inexperienced building repairs that don’t meet building requirements create safety hazards. If you see something like this where you live there is a good chance it can be repaired or rebuilt to avoid a accident.
“When joists are parallel to the jacks, install blocking between the joists to receive the strapping. The strapping is nailed to the bottom of the outer joist with 16d commons; the combined strength of the inner connections compensates for this somewhat sketchy one”
You should just use a strap along the outside of the stringer/deck joist wrapped under if your going to do it that way.
That is a good illustration Joe, and that is the type of hanger that I use.
The only thing I would add, is that any set of stairs on a deck 6’ or higher, the rim joist should be doubled to compensate for the weight of the stairs and the lateral forces and twisting distortion exerted by the railing posts for the railing systems.