If the discharge pipe on a temperature pressure relief valve off a water heater is polyethylene pipe should that pipe be secured at the bottom to prevent it from whipping around in the event of a discharge
Below copied in part from: TPR Relief Valve Discharge Tube Codes & Hazards Installation, inspection, & specifications for discharge tubes on TPR valves used on boilers & water heaters
- TPR Valve Discharge Tube Materials: the drain line material requirements vary by jurisdiction; some areas permit both plastic as well as copper or galvanized steel piping. But where plastic drain line materials are used, the temperature rating of the plastic must be above the highest temperature that might be produced by the heating appliance to which the T&P valve is connected.
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Yes is should be strapped in my opinion.
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Thank you that’s what I was thinking as well
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#7 When the relief valve discharge piping goes upward
where did you get this Brian?
They are to be installed to flow by gravity.
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Brian I don’t know if the OP has posted comments about a commercial water heater or a residential water heater. The codes are very different. The entire Georgia residential code was not captured in the photograph.
I never reference anything from the IPC when performing residential inspections. Because most of my work is 12 month warranty work and new homes I do reference the South Carolina amended IRC.
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Here is the rest of it.
I typically do not reference code in my reports. I make my recommendation and in my mind I know I have supporting information if pushed. Or, I can rely on my opinion and state why.
In the OP’s situation which I have encountered myself, I personally think it would be best if the TPRV drain pipe is not rigid, it should be secured. However, I have never seen one fully pop off; therefore I am relying on my thoughts and what I have seen in other professional installations. Code supports my opinion to some degree. What do you think?
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Over 90% of my work is 12 month warranty, pre drywall and pre-closing inspections. I don’t deal with real estate agents and I don’t care too. They are no part of my business and I don’t solicit their business.
Builders have a tendency to say “That’s fine it was passed by the county inspector”. The problem is the county inspector never looked at the interior of the electrical panel, climbed the roof or ever enter the attic space. This is where I find the majority of my defects.
I have a method and means of describing to my client what the defective is and why it is wrong. When the builder sees my report they make the repairs based on the information I provide them.
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Hey, check this out. That would be pex and poly right?
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Absolutely that is PEX and polybutling piping. I’ve been calling this out in my inspections for the last two years. I’m finally starting to see the installers use 3/4” CPVC fittings rather than 1 inch PEX.
I had a plumber make a call to me while he was at my clients house debating the use of his 3/4” PEX. After referencing the code he shut up fixed it with CPVC.
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Probably because you keep busting their chops!
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I have 3 open days for inspections in September. Word gets out 
The nice thing about 12 month warranty and pre-closing inspections is they can be scheduled far far in advance.
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I normally do not reference code either. This one was being asked by a realtor that I had called out the discharge piping being polyethylene and not secured. She was asking where it stated it in the code.
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Robert you do know that PEX is a form of polyethylene piping and is an approved potable water material.
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Are you sure it wasn’t polypropylene?
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Yes I am aware. See it all the time. Was not aware that is was an acceptable discharge pipe for a TPR valve.
It was poly. My company had been calling out plastic discharge piping due to the thought that it could whip around in the event of a discharge. Securing the pipe solves that issue.
Always learning