Trinity Ti150 Troubleshoot

I own a Trinity Ti150 combination heating and domestic water system. The house I moved into last year was mostly empty for 6 years. The unit was not serviced, but still used as a heat source.

I am finding that the hot water is fluctuating and it has been getting worse.

The unit has been torn down and fully cleaned. (this should be done once a year but went six years without).

The mixing valve body has been changed. (old one was seized)

I think I need to change the brazing plate heat exchanger. There are signs of corrosion on the exterior of the heat exchanger.

Anyone know much about these units?
Is that the problem?
or is there something else i should look into?

What do you men fully cleaned , how was it cleaned who cleaned it

Full tear down, inside the burner unit was very dirty. The tubes were all brushed and cleaned. The burner was cleaned up. The burner assembly was taken apart and everything inside was cleaned.

Did you have a combustion test run what do the flames look like or can you see them when operating

No combustion test. The flames are now bright blue. They were orange before the tear down.

Sounds as if the flames are as they should be or close to it. I am not up on your particular brand is this a hot water circulator you mentioned tubes, flame to the outer tubes and water circulating give me something to work with I have worked on boilers up to 100 HP

Trinity Ti150

Mine is the combination unit. The combination unit is the only one with the brazed plate heat exchanger. I believe that is the problem, but with a $350 price tag on the part, plus installation I want to confirm it is the issue.

2) DOESN’T MAINTAIN TEMPERATURE – When there is no call for domestic the unit is off. From a
dead stop the unit will detect flow and start providing heat in 15 seconds, and be up to capacity by
25 seconds. Once running, the unit can provide an endless amount of hot water. If the flow is
momentarily turned off for whatever reason, the unit will turn off. Once off, the unit must relight, and
not provide heat for 15-25 seconds. This will cause cold unheated water to pass through the unit,
and advance through the domestic plumbing between the previously heated (hot) water, and the
new (hot) water. This can be mistaken for an inability to adequately heat the water.

Did you read this area of the manual it sounds to me that you may have more of a control problem than a burner problem…

I am off to Texas for the week end good luck.

That is exactly what is happening, but i happens while having a shower. The call for hot water is continuous, but the burner will kick on and off. That is what i am confused about.

Sorry been out of State and did not get back to you It sounds to me like you have a safety shutting down the burner could be a limit control or something simular I would think something minor a easy fix

Update: I have changed the Brazed Plate Heat Exchanger. That was the problem. It was partially clogged on the inside. Now I have an air lock in the air handler. I will try and get that out and I should have heat for the house again.

The hot water for the house is working perfectly now.

Heat exchangers can be cleaned by a product called simple green. Works well as you put it in over night and the next morning it is like new. If you had to change it out Timothy it would need to be cleaned or replaced. I hope they did not con you into saying it needed replaced and did not check for damage?

No one “coned” me. It was a recommendation and I did some research. It could of been cleaned, but nothing would of guaranteed it to work when done. As it is somewhat of a lengthy process to swap out, I decided to buy a new one. That way I knew it would work. Now I just have to remove the air lock, fun fun.

I hope I am posting this in the correct place!! We had a Trinity NTI T150 installed in 2007. It’s been a great boiler until recently. It is making a loud banging noise as soon as the hot water is turned on. It doesn’t happen every time however when the thermostat calls for heat it can also bang but that is less common. We have now spent over $1,000 on parts ( pressure relief, expansion tank, a chemical flush/clean and some other random plumbing items) and it still bangs. When the banging occurs the pressure gauge jumps all over the place and the new pressure relief valve drips. We are at a total loss and can’t afford to keep throwing good money after bad, any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you.

Is the boiler banging, or is it the pipe work?

Timothy …

Why all the guessing? What did your service tech say was wrong when he came out?

Dan that is an old thread Tim could of passed by now:shock: