Here’s a truss to wall connection I saw today during an inspection.All the trusses in the garage were like this. They are 4" away.How would you write this up.This was not for wind mitigation.Also what kind of insulation is this and why does it stop wher it does.
Its not a strap installed like this The insulation is a Fi-Foil radient barrier used to reflect the heat from entering the attic space and it actually does keep the attic cooler. Most likely installed this way because it was installed afterwards and its difficult to get all the way down to the soffit area.
Thanks Russel,
I knew it wasn’t a strap,but wondered about structural value.Some off the nails are barely in the bottom cord.
wind mit insp or not, the sgl wraps are misplaced and will allow truss uplift in a severe wind event. Retrofits should be advised.
That is radiant barrier that someone did not take all the way down to the wall plane. Can’t tell by photo, but there may be an outdoor covered porch below which does not need the benefit of the barrier, as there is no above ceiling insul present.
That’s “improper” hardware not designed for that application. It look like a broken of section of a Simpson ST2115 strap. Proper hardware would tie to the sides of the wall so that the nails in the sides of the top plates and studs would be resisting a shear force, much stronger than this condition in which the nails are resisting withdrawal, that is, the nails in the top plate would be resisting withdrawal if there were any nails in it, which there don’t appear to be. It should have hurricane ties, spec’d by an engineer
That radiant barrier should have been installed across the tops of the bottom chords of the trusses. Properly installed, they’d have had enough material to complete the job. Any asphalt shingles installed on that roof will have the warranty voided by that installation.
I have only seen radiant barrier on tile roofs…
Probably one of those things that varies by area. I don’t see them very often.
That strap isn’t right as mentioned. The radiant barrier isn’t doing much if it’s not covering everything. It’s figured to have a value of about an R-1. It also has to stay clean and shinny to work right. A test in Southern Nevada found it would save a 1200 square foot house about $11 a year. That’s installed properly.
What test?
CLIP
Look in my attic…you’ll see one!
Shingle roof.
Kenton here is the test info. http://www.toolbase.org/pdf/fieldevaluations/AsdalFinalReport.pdf#page=15
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That’s “improper” hardware not designed for that application. It look like a broken of section of a Simpson ST2115 strap. Proper hardware would tie to the sides of the wall so that the nails in the sides of the top plates and studs would be resisting a shear force, much stronger than this condition in which the nails are resisting withdrawal, that is, the nails in the top plate would be resisting withdrawal if there were any nails in it, which there don’t appear to be. It should have hurricane ties, spec’d by an engineer
Kenton, what are you talking about? I’m talking about the post from Sebastian, FL which pic sure looks like a cmu wall with an effort at a single wrap. You seem to be referring to nails and wood framing…
Uh-oh. My bad.:oops::oops::oops:.
Still it looks like the offset of the strap would reduce its effectiveness at preventing uplift.
Thanks Robert!
Ah -HAH! I stand corrected… at least partially.
The reason the radiant barrier does not extend all the way down is that they are providing ventilation for the underside of the roof sheathing, so I was wrong, this installation will not void the warranty, but would if the radiant barrier completely enclosed the truss bay without providing some means of ventilation, like soffit/ridge vents.
The report was prepared by the NAHB Research Center, actual data was from studies done by Lawrence-Livermoore and Oak Ridge National Laboratories, which are pretty credible sources. The problems is, this is just one study of one home in one climate zone. According to the report, utility costs in the area in which the test subject home was located are some of the lowest in the country, which means the annual savings probably doesn’t reflect accurately the performance of radiant barriers across a wide range of climate zones. It does call Southern Nevada an excellent location for the use of radiant barriers.
That radiant barrier should have been installed across the tops of the bottom chords of the trusses. Properly installed, they’d have had enough material to complete the job. Any asphalt shingles installed on that roof will have the warranty voided by that installation.
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Hi, Kenton. I think you may want to re-consider this regarding radiant barrier installation. It needs to be on the bottom of the truss top chords as its purpose is to reflect the UV rays back up through the roof so they do not heat up the attic space.
Hi, Kenton. I think you may want to re-consider this regarding radiant barrier installation. It needs to be on the bottom of the truss top chords as its purpose is to reflect the UV rays back up through the roof so they do not heat up the attic space.
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It can be done either way. for new construction, it gets put on before the decking, and there is a sag left in between the trusses for ventilation.
If you install it after the decking is on, it gets stapled to the bottoms of the trusses and the air from the soffit vents goes between the foil and the decking.
Ideally you add a ridge vent and all the air escapes through the peak of the roof.
Here is where I got mine: Attic Foil