Wanted to buy spray foam equipment

Spray Foam as a Business?
I have a friend who is extremely successful on Home Energy audits .
Unfortunately as of MARCH first the government is stopping all support for this .
Business has died big time and those in the Industry will starve for a while . Home Inspection in his area is also not an option.
Any information on Spray foam insulation would be helpful.

[FONT=Arial][size=2]Does anyone have any experience with spray foam as a business?

I am considering becoming an independent spray foam installer and would like to know some information such as;

  • expected initial capital
  • required equipment
  • franchise / licensing fees
  • supplier selection (who’s foam to install)
  • supplier requirements
  • employee requirements (number of people required on site)
  • training (lenght and cost)
  • profit margin (markup %)
  • insurance costs
  • quoting practices
  • average annual income
  • pitfalls (what to look out for)
  • tips (any aditional advice)
  • marketing avenues ( where to spend those advertizing dollars)
  • etc.

Any Info or thoughts appreciated . Thanks Roy


Your friend should be doing a good market study before he jumps in!

In Canada, we’re at the end of a substantial federal/provincial subsidy program. Programs like this although beneficial to all those that participate (both vendors and homeowners), the grants breed an artificial demand…the market will go fairly flat for a while until another grant program happens …or the price of oil goes through the roof.

If he’s got funds and can hold on until the market improves, there may be an opportunity to buy equipment at great prices. Be wery, wery careful!

An insulation company here that began after the audit/grant program was underway and grew quickly to 3-4 trucks became insolvent in January!!!

Tell your friend that a very essential piece of equipment will be a blower door and manometer for him to use before and after his sealing efforts to ensure that he (1) does not create negative pressures that could backdraft emitted gases back into the home, (2) to assist him in locating the air bypasses, (3) to quantify the air bypasses and (4) ensure a healthy air change rate exists (mechanically or otherwise) after the work is done. An IR camera would help but if he cannot afford both he should definitely have a blower door system.

Without this step he will be guessing about things that could kill people.

From another thread…
Google Retrofoam - particularly alleged issues and claims in Ontario, as well as the class action suit


Simple suggestion - do lots of research and really know what you are getting in to!

I think that he is probably looking at polyurethane spray foam insulation. No formaldehyde** gas.**

Polyurethane Insulation Materials

Polyurethane is a closed-cell foam insulation material that contains a low-conductivity gas (usually hydrochlorofluorocarbons or HCFC) in its cells. The high thermal resistance of the gas gives polyurethane insulation materials an R-value typically around R-7 to R-8 per inch.
Over time, the R-value of polyurethane insulation can drop as some of the low-conductivity gas escapes and air replaces it. This phenomenon is known as thermal drift. Experimental data indicates that most thermal drift occurs within the first two years after the insulation material is manufactured. The R-value then slowly decreases. For example, if the insulation has an initial R-value of R-9 per inch, it will probably eventually drop to R-7 per inch. The R-value then remains unchanged unless the foam is damaged.
Polyurethane insulation is available as a liquid sprayed foam and rigid foam board. It can also be made into laminated insulation panels with a variety of facings.
Sprayed-Foam Polyurethane Insulation

Sprayed or foamed-in-place applications of polyurethane insulation are usually cheaper than installing foam boards. These applications also usually perform better since the liquid foam molds itself to all of the surfaces.
All closed-cell polyurethane foam insulation made today is produced with a non-CFC (chlorofluorocarbon) gas as the foaming agent. Some polyurethane foam combines with a HCFC gas. These types don’t insulate as well as insulation made with a CFC gas, but the non-CFC gas is less destructive to the ozone layer. However, these foams still have an aged R-6.5 per inch thickness. Their density is generally 2.0 lb/ft3 (32.0 kilograms per cubic meter [kg/m3]). There also are low-density open-cell polyurethane foams (0.5 lb/ft3 [8 kg/m3]). These foams are similar to conventional polyurethane foams, but are more flexible. Some low-density varieties use carbon dioxide (CO2) as the foaming agent.
Low-density foams are sprayed into open wall cavities and rapidly expand to seal and fill the cavity. One manufacturer offers a slow-expanding foam, which is intended for cavities in existing homes. The liquid foam expands very slowly and thus reduces the chance of damaging the wall from overexpansion. The foam is water-vapor permeable, remains flexible, and is resistant to wicking of moisture. It provides good air sealing and yields about R-3.6 per inch of thickness. It is also fire resistant and won’t sustain a flame.
Soy-based, polyurethane liquid spray-foam products are also available. The cured R-value is around 3.7 per inch. These products can be applied with the same equipment used for petroleum-based polyurethane foam products.
Rigid Polyurethane Foam Board Insulation

Foil and plastic facings on rigid, polyurethane foam panels can help stabilize the R-value, preventing thermal drift. Testing suggests that the stabilized R-value of rigid foam with metal foil facings remains unchanged after 10 years. Reflective foil, if installed correctly, can also act as a radiant barrier, which adds another R-2 to the overall thermal resistance. Panels with foil facings have stabilized R-values of R-7.1 to R-8.7 per inch.

Thanks James He has been doing Energy testing for quite a while .
I expect he is in the Top 5% in Canada he is Level one IR qualified .
He is extremely busy right now ,But Energy audits die on March 31 .
He is looking to the future .
He did my home and stopped me from Making it any tighter.
Please keep you thoughts and ideas coming they help all to increase our knowledge.
We have been very close friends for about 10 years and his knowledge is great . He does his home work before making any decisions.


James can you give me some material on that please.
Looking into energy audits.

A lot more of these products are inert Claude. The use water not gases to activate the material. They are harmless.
The products that are being used are much more efficient and safer.

I think foam insulation is a great product, however, it depends on the accepted standards and proper testing of products.

Foam insulation can lead to dangerous allergic reactions for some people. The foam within the wall cavity will allow moist air in, which condenses to water on the inner wall. This is common in cold-weather climates, however, in warm weather climates the effect happens in reverse. The moisture within the wall cavity will eventually lead to mold and mildew, two allergens that trouble people daily.

Read more: What Are the Dangers of Spray-Foam Insulation? | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/list_6689807_dangers-spray_foam-insulation_.html


Click here to view the CCMC 12840R report.


(4) The Volatile Organic Emissions (VOC) under consideration were below the detection limit after 24 hours. The determination of emissions and room concentration calculations were done
by the Saskatchewan Research Council. Reported results from emission tests indicate that the product would be unlikely to cause a major adverse health problem. While the testing and evaluation represent the current state-of-the-art tests in toxicological evaluation, such tests and their results do not purport to be conclusive with respect to the impact on health.

A Big Thanks to all for your posts Much information and many ideas.
I think this Forum and its Posters are some of the greatest Homies around.
I am so Glad we have this place and these active Homies who Care about our industry.
From this Forum I have learned much and tried to add my knowledge like others also do .
This Forum has improved My inspections Considerable .
Thanks to all and please keep doing and** HELPING ALL** .
Roy Cooke

Yes Claude. You are right. You need air to circulate to insure the wall or substructure breaths.
Good point.

In some of the links here Ray pertaining to insects, it is a natural for any home owner to observe for pest and insects.
The hyperbole seems to be coming from other manufactures seeing the true potential foam has.
I can be installed into homes already built. Injected into wall that have a void to accept foam applocation.
Like any product there are the pros and cons.
Its up to the home owner to be aware of all the complications that come along with the product they are about to use to see if it fits there life style.

  • would love to see a study on Canadian home.
    How many have been done with ANY FORM.
    To the amount of problems foam causes.
    I have been using foam for 20 years now for voids in every conceivable place known to man.
    I have yet to here of a problem.
    When used wright.

What is the approx cost to the installer per square foot 1" thick?

You are asking a very open question.
When installing foam through injection 2 ways of doing it.
1: you can only control its thickness it the operator. Its like painting a car. Same sweeping Motion.
You install foam when the walls are open. The foam it sprayed onto the backing , substrate , between the studs. It is over sprayed and the excess is cut off with a big saw. The saws is specialy or you must have an aggressive tooth formation that spans beyond the length of the studs by at good 18 plus inches.
I am being vague now. you control the R. factor. Depth.
The other way is 2:
to inject between the substraght and the wall board. Finished walls.
You drill holes and inject material into the voids. You have 2 holes per void. 1 at the bottom to let material in and the other near the top to show material coming out to know you filled the void. It must use NON EXPANSIVE or else you will blow the wall board off the studs and bow out the exterior cladding…
It is something a manufacture will teach you.
You approximate the square inches to fill. Then do the math.
Go to your local supplier look at foam product and see for your self.

Hi Roy,

Give SprayWorks Equipment Group a call. They specialize in spray foam equipment, spray foam rigs and training. I am sure they can help answer all of your questions.


Thanks Dave much appreciated Info sent on .