Water heater flue in tight space

Here is a water heater in a garage.
The flue goes out the back wall.

There is a 90 degree bend very close to the top of the water heater.
I’m looking for codes to verify and I can’t find them but I believe the 90 degree bend must be at least 12 inches above the water heater and the flue must maintain 1/4 inch per foot rise. It can’t be level.
Is my memory on those guidelines right?

Can you find anything else wrong with this installation?
Bradford White GX225S6BN
25 gal natural gas water heater July 2007=15 years which is pretty old for a water heater. And 25 gal is pretty small.
Large garage 35 ft x 24 ft also has a 100,000 btu/hr natural gas furnace.
No carbon monoxide measured, no gas leaks measured.




It just goes out the back wall to the outside? no vertical vent/rise? do you have a pic from the outside? Forget 90s and slopes, a natural draft cannot vent horizontally to the outdoor without mechanical ventilation. Also missing is a sedimentary trap on the gas pipe.

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From the top view, it looks like replacement may be near. Local codes in my area require a mechanical barrier for gas appliances in the garage. I agree, if that is the only water heater, you better be living there alone!
image

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There’s nothing in the Bradford White manual for this model addressing your concern with the flue pipe. The manual says to follow local codes. Some problems I see is an expansion tank that is not supported, improperly installed TPR discharge pipe, lack of sediment trap on the gas line and possible seismic straps. The manual does state the flue pipe should be secured with screws so ensure the drafter hood and flue pipe have sheet metal screws. This will likely be code as well. More information is needed on the flue pipe such as does it terminate vertical? Is there a sleeve going through that cinderblock wall? The flue pipe does have to rise at 1/4 inch per foot.

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That is my memory also.

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For undersized heaters: an eeMax “tank booster” can provide for peak need use, without changing the tank.

@bhull1 do you have an outside photo of the flue?

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Yep, that is what I recall.

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Here is the back wall
The water heater vent ends right there on the exterior wall ( horizontal vent).
The radon vent was installed 2018. More than ten years after the current water heater.
I wonder if the radon vent pipe ( PVC material) is too close to the water heater exhaust? No damage visible.

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Bert, are you messing with us?

Did you notice how discolored the top of the water heater is? why do you think that is :slight_smile:

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That’s no good. For one it needs a draft-inducing fan.

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Yowzers! There’s a lot going on back there (relating to the WH flue and the NG Meter relief discharge)!!

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Ha Ha, No I’m not messing with you guys. This was on my inspection and I’m calling out some issues and the plumber says its ok, and I’m saying “no, there are multiple issues here”. So I came on here for some back up and make sure I’m not being to picky.

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You are not wrong about that. They crammed a lot of equipment down there in that corner for sure.

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I agree with you. And I think the top of the tank is showing signs of poor draft.

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a licensed plumber? said there is nothing wrong with the installation of the pictured WH? like nothing at all nothing? is April early this year? :rofl:

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Probably the seller’s “plumber”. I don’t talk to the sellers so I will probably never know who it is. All I will do is stand by the report which recommended replacement by a qualified plumbing contractor. All these responses have strengthened my position. I thank you.

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NFPA:

It has to terminate above the roofline. It cannot terminate on the side of the house like pictured. It would need mechanical power vent to terminate and vent horizontally. To me, if venting is wrong like that, nothing else matters.

From the manual, among other things:

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Hope you said something about that ledger board being attached to the brick!

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What do you say about that?

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