Water pressure too high?

What is considered too high of water pressure in a 3 year old home? At the exterior Hose bibs I measured 98lbs pressure. There appeared to be no problems but its a rare thing to see such high pressure so I’m wondering.
Whats the reasonable range?

80 lbs max. as far as I know. Otherwise, you could blow seals, etc.

80 psi, regardless of age. . .

Around here it is not unusual to find excess of 80 psi at exterior hose bibs/sill cocks and the acceptable 40-80 psi at the interior fixtures.
The regulated side is always before the WH so all supplies to fixtures comply within the house.
I just note the different readings and go on, most prefer the higher pressure for car washing, landscape and pool usage.
Getting the chores done quicker is their logic.
I’ll see what today brings and post pix if mixed pressure is present.

P.S. I only test at laundry on new or vacant properties and write untested pressure on the rest…no faucet adapters for me, dismantling fixtures to install an adapter for pressure gauge can and has caused problems with sellers…and tapping the WH drain has also proved disastrous with tank debris clogging my pressure gauge or the tank drain valve not closing properly after testing…I’ve orphaned/sacrificed more than one gauge so I could finish the inspection and leave with assurance of no leakage…plumbers were nice enough to heed the note I left and return the gauge…sometimes the sacrifice was cheaper then the retrieval

I like seeing 70-80 lbs on municipal water pressure.

Anything higher needs a pressure reducer…


I only test the pressure with gauges when I discover issues at the supply side.

If a home is supplied by a pumped system instead of elevated tanks, water pressure can vary considerably with the time of day and usage in the community because centrifugal pumps deliver a pressure that follows a curve, decreasing as the flow increases. In such cases, I would recommend further review with the possiblity of installing (or adjusting if already installed) a pressure regulator. I do agree with the above about disassembling plumbing and exposing the inspector to possible damage problems and/or floods. Consequently, I usually test at a hose bib outdoors. With no waterbeing consumed in the home that will be as accurate as needed in most cases.

It’s pretty common around here that exterior bibs are plumbed before a reducer. Thus giving exterior hoses/bibs better pressure and leaving all interior plumbing @ 70-80 psi.

When there is a regulator, do you comment on the need for an expansion tank if there is none?

Regardless of whether or not there is a regulator, an expansion tank is not required unless the street pressure (building supply pressure) is greater than the relief valve pressure setting.

Up in Western Maryland (Cumberland) the municiple water supply pressure is 125 lbs. Kinda rough on bubber clad washer hoses, better always use stainless clad. They don’t regulate individule properties. The city controls all pressures. May recommend buyer/seller check with local utility as to the acceptable pressures.:cool:

…and when required by the local code.

Doesn’t a pressure relief valve prevent pressure relief through the building supply? I thought they did not allow back flow.

Pressure 115 hurt to take a shower .
Put in above reducer set it at 40 lbs .
We are all happy use less water and does not hurt cost about $40;00.

Thanks to all good post good answers.

Not always true.

Series: PRV-1
Description: Small Diameter Water Pressure Reducing Valves
Available Sizes: 1/2 to 1 in. (15 to 25mm)

Series PRV-1 Water Pressure Reducing Valves are designed to reduce incoming water pressure to a sensible level to protect plumbing system components and reduce water consumption. Their bronze bodies are suitable for water supply pressures up to 300psi (20.7 bar) and may be adjusted from 25 – 75psi (1.7– 5.2 bar). The standard setting is 50psi (3.4 bar). All parts are easily serviceable without removing the valve from the line. The standard bypass feature permits the flow of water back through the valve into the main when pressures, due to thermal expansion on the outlet side of the valve, exceed the pressure in the main.


The home is occupied and though I like the idea to measure at the laundry supply, I don’t want to move a washing machine or disconnect hoses and turn water valves rarely used to measure inside the house. I didn’t see a pressure regulator in the crawl space either. I will just note what I saw OUTSIDE and make a note about inside pressure.
Otherwise I suppose I’d need a handful of adapters to connect a faucet to the gauge somewhere in the house.

If there are no taps on in the home regardless where you measure you will get the same pressure reading.


I assume you mean a pressure reducing valve, rather than a pressure relief valve, in which case, Michael posted the pertinent information.

As Jim pointed out, even when using the same model code (the UPC in this case), local jurisdictions will vary in their requirements.

Good catch Mr Pope. I read his post as meaning reducing not relieving.:roll: