Water pressure

How many of you test water pressure? For the ones that do, what point of connection do you use? How many times have you found a problem and what do you consider to be a problem?

I test the pressure at the exterior hose bib/faucet. Even when it is beyond most SOP’s, I try to check the pressure at every inspection. Here in KC, cities just turn up the pressure to new sub-divisions instead of adding new pumps. This causes some in-city homes to have high pressure. If the lines are plastic, I always recommend that the plastic system be regulated, if it has a regulator or not. Most all faucet warranties only warrant their products if the water pressure is under 80 pounds. My highest is 143 pounds. Every faucet in that home was dripping, and all had corrosion around them. Takes the strain off of dishwasher valves, wash machine valves, etc.

If there is no wash machine in place, you can check pressure there. However, do not put too much stress on the faucet if it is hard to turn on; it may not turn off. That would be something else to write up in your report. I check cold sides only for pressure, far away from the hot water heater as possible. Some systems are regulated on home side, but not the outside. Watch for the regulators, and note where they are placed.

IMO, any reading over 80 pounds should be regulated down to 70. About one third of my inspections have readings over 80. Depends upon the city. Some are very cautious about their pressure, and some are not.

Rick, I do. Sometimes I use the outdoor hose bib or if the house is vacant, the washing machine faucet. I do run into problems from time to time, generally on the high side. Recently I had a bad reading and found the pressure reg in the crawlspace corroded and leaking.

Correct. Regulators can fail over time. Even if you see one, I would check the system pressure. I see plumbers fail to set them often, even in new homes.

I test water pressure on public water supply. On private I leave for the county of qualified specialist.

I carry 2 gauges, extra washer, caps and areators.

I test at the water heater drain, laundry tub, exterior faucet.

I can see how much sediment is in the tank. Pressure over 80 PSI is a concern. If there is a regulator it may be improperly adjusted, dirty or inoperative.

I make a professional choice to do this. Also I realy look at the water heater and if the drain valve is older, signs of leaking I will not test there.

Also if there is a sprinkler system it should be noted as higher pressure is optimal for the lawn.

My highest reading was 150PSI!!

Does anyone test at a kitchen or bathroom fixture? This would require the removal of the aerator and an adaptor fitting, but my concern is that some fixtures are probably not designed to be pressurized between the valve and aerator???

Testing at an exterior hose bib is not an option for me during the winter time and I am leary about disturbing washer/laundrytub/water heater drain connections.

Many times I have found the aerator in the threads of my pressure gauge and why I keep extra.

Laundry tub and water heater are best places to test. (Be careful at the water heater) (Why I keep caps as some valves leak)

Like you said, hose bibs only good if they are on.

If you test keep an extra gauge as they only seem to last me a year.

I do the rear exterior hose bib. It’s the farthest away from the source which is at the street here.

I check the water pressure… if it’s high or low outside of 40-80, I’ll note it. If I can’t find the regulator that may be buried in the dirt out front, I note that as well.

You could get really fancy and crack open a fixture or two and see how much pressure/volume drops… home buyers get irritated when you can only take one shower at a time and they just had their home inspected.

Wherever possible, I perform a meter check as well… slab leaks are expensive to fix.

I also include a narrative in regards to homes that are piped below the slab…