observation: water pressure testing conducted at the lowest hose outlet on the exterior of the house. No verification that the hose valve is located downstream of the water pressure regulator. No expansion tank installed on the hot water heater.
Water pressure testing results:90# psig.
What say you?
There are no other indicators anywhere in the house that water pressure is excessive.
Must the pressure reducing valve be adjusted?
“Must” is an inappropriate word in an inspection report.
I would record my observation that the pressure is above the optimum and I would recommend that it be adjusted to be between 60 and 80.
In my area most arrogation supply is installed before the interior regulator which sometimes includes the hose bibs.
would you expect a plumber to come out on a service call to adjust 10 psi when there is no other associated conditions?
I find that water pressure gauges are very inaccurate. I go through at least six or seven of them a year due to freezing, shock damage, inaccuracy etc…
Outside of those cells are often not part of the regulated water supply. This was not covered in the inspection report.
Whether or not my recommendation in an inspection report is “practical” has no bearing on whether or not it will appear in my report, since it is simply a record of observations and recommendations from which my client may (or may not) choose to have accomplished. They may decide to wait until there is some other problem in the future…and then implement one of my recommendations in conjunction with it. I don’t know.
In an energy audit report, where I am writing/prioritizing a scope of work, I will take such matters into consideration. For a home inspection report…it’s a waste of time, IMO. More often than not, they are going to use the sum of the issues to negotiate a reduction in price…get their reduction in price…and then file the report away for years.
what did the other hose bibs read??
90 is too high and should be regulated down…
First, I would verify (with my accurate, non-freezing pressure gauge) that the INSIDE pressure is high. Then my report would simply state;
“The water pressure inside the residence is exceeds 80 psi and the regulator should be adjusted so that the static pressure is between 60 and 75 psi. However, it may be that the regulator has failed, or is failing and the pressure cannot be reduced, in which case the regulator should be replaced by a qualified plumber.”
82 or for that matter 80.5 is too high.
Either of which are an indication that the regulator (if there is one) is not doing it’s job.
If we are there during the day… what do you suppose the pressure is “creeping” to at night?
Just about every regulator I’ve installed was nearly 60 psi, right out of the box. If I see see a measurement near 80 psi, I’ll make a note to check again in the near future.
Next time you see a borderline measurement, leave a gauge with the “High Sweep” if you have one… on overnite, you may see it creep up quite a bit.
I’ve done just that several times when it was borderline, only to find the daytime pressure about the same during the daytime and as high as 120 (red sweep hand) for overnite pressure.
Always something…
Brian, I didn’t do this testing. I inspected the house three years ago. The now listing real estate agent (selling real estate agent then) is asking for opinions.
I gave my opinion.
I am looking for other opinions or possible requirements (not building code) that sets maximum water pressure requirements.
I’m interested in the arguments that the homeowner is required to pay for a plumber to adjust water pressure one psi above 80 psi standards.
It is noteworthy to report that the pressure is elevated, but what is the justification for requiring adjustment?
How does it fit here?
one PSIG above standard, probably not because none of us carry Calibrated, mirror back, accurate, pressure gauges…
But 90 PSIG is too much… it is hard on the crappy internal piping assembled in Sri Lanka, on Dishwashers, Icemakers, Clothes Washers, etc…
The regulator installed may have failed… 
Homeowners are not required here to even look at my report let alone act on any of my recommendations.
This is a false assertion. There is no argument that would require a homeowner to take any action on this issue.
what I’m asking is how much is too much?
is there documentation on any appliance that specifically addresses pressure regulation limits?
thank you Jeffrey, that is what I’m trying to ascertain. I keep getting conjecture!
most of your posts are conjecture… why should we be any different…
Just make up stuff to tell your Realtor friend and I am sure they will keep using you… 
I don’t make stuff up is I go along !
So,#1 my posts are not conjecture, #2 your recommendation proves that you do! 
David,
Per the IRC (if that is what is in use in your area) P2903.3.1 Max pressure 80 PSI…
Chuck
http://admin.totousa.com/Product%20Downloads/0GU9102,%20NEOREST%20500%20BOWL,%20EN,%20IM,%20V.01.pdf
The model code is written for a reason… you will end up with more chances for water hammer above 80 psig in residential plumbing.
:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
I have seen some instances where the pressure is so high it caused the TPR valves to leak. In those cases adjustment or replacement of the regulator was the only fix.
Even so…a home inspection report is not a “must do” report. It is a collection of opinions, suggestions and recommendations that carry whatever amount of weight the parties to the real estate transaction wish to give it.