The water heater was in the basement. The exhaust flue was very long. It touches the shingles as it passes the roofline. Technically I think it is wrong, but it’s such a long distance, is it really a big deal? How hot can it be by the time it goes up 35 ft to the roofline?
Would you call it out as a fire hazard? Would you call it out for a different reason?
Commercial rated WH?
IMO, no way a natural draft WH with that long of a flue exposed to the elements will maintain the heat necessary for a positive draft.
Any indication of backdrafting?
Good point. It was pretty cold.
i put my hand at the top of the water heater to feel for airflow. and I looked for any staining, scorching. Its a regular 75 gallon NG water heater.
Interesting side note: the furnace had a similar BTU/Hr rating as the water heater but the exhaust for the furnace was 5 ft to the left (PVC pipes over the air conditioner). The tall exhaust for the WH seems excessive to me.
See, the funny thing is the squareish caulk lines on top/sides of where the B-vent comes through the wall. It looks like there was a square vent from a direct vent water heater previously. I’m guessing something funky happened and some guy replaced the direct vent water heater with a normal draft hood water heater that vented to the side wall. Next home inspector comes up and say you can’t vent like that… Homeowner didn’t want to spend the money to put in a brand new direct vent water heater since the water heater was just replaced so they paid someone to have it extended past the roof. Otherwise, I can’t see why anyone would go through all that work to run the B-vent up the side of the house to the roof since it looks like ass and takes more labor to do???
May I also say, the metal chimney flue chimney is not vertical/plumb. Metal Chimney pipes require vertical wall bracing at a minimum of every 6-8 feet (depending on the manufacturer) up the side of the structure.
Hi Ray,
Thanks for taking a look and helping out with some possible defects. That picture was taken in the dark back corner of the basement so it may be hard to see the TPRV is on the left side of the tank in that picture. We don’t strap the tanks in Tennessee because we don’t often have earth quakes big enough to notice.
Here in my area a gas water heater only needs to be elevated 18" if it is in a garage and if it is not listed as flammable vapor ignition-resistant. CPSC mandated that all Gas water heaters be FVIR since 2002. This water heater was manufactured in 2016 and is in the basement.
Now I see it…LOL…the red arrow helps…around here they’re all strapped and elevated no matter what. It makes me nervous seeing them sitting on the floor…especially since there’s a label with a guy catching fire on the water heater… but rules are rules I guess…thanks for the reply btw…
I would have called it out just for the fact it’s wrong, dangerous? most likely not, I would also put in the report for approved permits to be obtained and then your client and you are covered.
Some of the problems Ron is many local and state jurisdictions don’t require permits for a lot of renovations or retrofits. My area has none, zilch. HI’s in areas that require permits for replacement of systems assume all areas and jurisdictions do the same. So, it’s always best to check before general statements are put in a report.