Hey Guys,
What kind of tester do you use… I am presently using GB GFCI tester, its a great tester, but now since I am doing more new homes that have AFCI’s, I was wondering how many of you use the Suretest by IDEAL…
IDEAL puts out some great testers, I was just wondering what everyone uses, and the pros or cons with such devices…
And do the newer testers in the $100 - $200 range, really assist in finding additional electrical defects???
Justin,
Technically speaking…your tester is fine in regards to basic testing and in regards to GFCI or AFCI’s…they should first be tested at the device itself be it a breaker or receptacle unit.
The GB Testers are fine but they will not show you about a “bootleg” ground which possibly homeowners showing their poor handy work…
Now if you are into doing voltage drop and REALLY understand what it means other than just making notice of perfectly ok situations…it could get you into more trouble than it is worth…
As for the basics…the GB GFCI tester is ok…but the Suretest ideal Tester is a step up…
The downside is they are not cheap…the upside is they give a more professional appearance and another level of testing …in that you can test the GFCI and AFCI via the actual device as the manufacturer recommends but also you get to try them again via the tester…which offers another level of inspection.
If you just use your tester to verify…understand the age of the house and look around for a mixture of 2 pring and 3 pring outlets…just understand that a bootleg could be possible…but if you are testing and do use the actual breaker or receptacle for testing the device…then the Sure test Ideal is an expensive addition…BUT in my mind and for what I do ( enhanced Electrical Inspections ) it is worth it.
I try and follow the SOP . I also use the same tester that the Ontario Electrical Inspectors use the cheap $6;00 three light taster that works fine for me .
Where do we draw the line should we buy the expensive air flow testers to see how much air comes out of each register and how about a water flow test on each tap and should I get a tester to see ?, and on it goes show many hours can I spend on a home inspection .
I like KISS Keep it simple stupid .
It fits me just fine thanks .
Leave the specialized testing to the proper trades
.
Roy Cooke
Aww…roy…you just are tight…lol…you Canadians…and your colorful funny money…lol
Yes and when you come to Canada You get a 20% bonus for your money.
See you soon I hope Roy
Justin
I am on my 3rd Ideal sure test analyzer in just over 1 year. There is a defect in the extension cord & pins. It loosen up after only a short time. The product is warrantied but isnt reliable in my opinion.
I only use when I suspect a bootleg ground or if I note in the panel only 2 wire system I may go back & re check an receptacle with the NOT SO SURE Ideal Analyzer.
Hope this helps.
Dave
Great info. thanks everyone…
I used to use the Ideal 165, but had the same problems that everyone was having with them. I recently went to the Tasco Inspector II. It is a little bit bulky, but I like it.
I’ve been using the SureTest for quite some time now. Just like any other tool, it can stop working or wear out. That’s why I have three of them.
SureTest will replace the unit for free if/when it stops working (@ $350 a pop, it’s nice to know they’ll replace the unit).
I also carry the 3-light testers, a non-contact voltage tester and Fluke (voltage continuity and current tester).
I use the Fluke and the three light tester. The Fluke to spot the bootleg grounds and unloaded voltage. Fluke is 20 plus years old and never been serviced - Good meter -
I do have a modified old power strip that I use that I hook the Fluke and the three light tester to. Saves testing time and it helps out when some one puts a socket in a spot where I can’t get the tester into. Like sockets in the overhead of a boat house
I do carry a resistive load (head gun) to load questionable ckts for voltage drop testing. Very seldom use it and I do charge $75.00 extra to test for voltage drop at a “representative” number of sockets
I do not like the Suretest. Basic test equipment is very hard to beat
rlb
rlb
lol…well give me New technology anytime…lol
Paul
That is why I bought the Fluke 20 years ago
BTW – I knew that the company was good
Still waiting for some good new tech stuff for my Xmas list
—(thermal cameras etc.) —
lol…ME TOO…hope SANTA is good to us BOTH…
Ditto here, except that it is $4.95 at Home Depot. Your price is in Canadian dollars, yes?
My business advisors and I decided to draw the line using the difference between a generalist and a specialist. We decided to be generalists, so our inspections are visual, and any testing is done using manufacturer’s operating controls and standard tools that a normal homeowner could reasonably be expected to have on hand, such as a ladder, a flashlight, a cheap electrical tester, a screwdriver, a digital camera, etc.
Or come up with choices for one’s Clients: I have nine different inspections (LIST, WALK, BASIC, STANDARD, PREMIUM, TECH, DRIVEBY, FLYBY, CARRY) to offer my Clients. I have more expensive tools that I use for the PREMIUM and TECH inspections. On the other side of the fence, my WALK, DRIVEBY, and FLYBY inspections use no tools whatsoever, no screwdrivers, no flashlights, no ladders, nothing.
I’ve never heard that term before. What is it?
Good morning, I use two type’s of tester’s one is the Commercial electric
HGFI-1302 outlet circuit & GFI tester and the GREENLEE GT-11 Voltage Detector. In have found that these two tester’s do everything that I need. The only other device that I want on my x-mas list is a Thermal Imaging camera. I hope that helps you.
Frank :mrgreen:No power being drawn through the branch…no load.
Ray,
I agree with you… a home inspection is a “general” inspection. I like to compare the medical professionals and home inspectors…
Just like in the medical field… You first see your Primary doctor, if the Doc. finds something that could lead to a bigger problem, he/she refers you to a specialist, surgeon, etc. etc.
Same with our field, its our job to discover any problems that should be seen with the naked eye… and if other problems exist that the General Doc. / home inspector can’t assist with… Pass on to a specialist…
Ray,
I agree with you… a home inspection is a “general” inspection. I like to compare the medical profession with home inspections… Home Inspectors are similar to General Doctors in relation to homes being our “area of study”…
Just like in the medical field… You first see your Primary doctor, if the Doc. finds something that could lead to a bigger problem or needs further diagnosis “further evaluation”, he/she refers you to a specialist, surgeon, etc. etc.
Same with our field, its our job to discover any problems that should be seen with the naked eye… and if other problems exist that the General Doc. can’t assist with… Pass on to a specialist…
Regarding AFCI testers, I came across a UL letter dtd. 3/21/05 that states that testing at the devices does not produce consistent results. SQ-D followed with a “white Paper” that is available at their site. Bottom line, both say they should be tested at the panel.
"Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter Tester? Not Really.
The proper way to test an AFCI is to use the push-to-test button located on the device.
Using an AFCI indicator, also referred to as an “AFCI tester,” may yield confusing and conflicting results."