Originally Posted By: rsmithson This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I just attended a class where the subject was circuit testers. I was shocked and you may be also to find out that these testers are not always accurate in what they tell you. For example: If the outlet is not grounded or has a false ground and also has another fault like reversed polarity or a open neutral the tester will real as though everything is OK. The rule of thumb with these inexpensive testers is they do all right if there is only on problem but if there are two or more problems they tell you that everything is fine. I found this to be a little troubling and wondered if anyone else has encountered this and what are our opptions when testing outlets.
Originally Posted By: jmyers This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I am not looking to bust anyones bubble here but the more expensive testers in the wrong hands are more dangerous than the inexpensive one in the right hands.
Originally Posted By: jremas This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
If you don’t know how to use it or what you can do with it then don’t touch it. After working with 480 3phase for over 10 years, I only trust a quality DMM. k.i.s.s.
Originally Posted By: Brad Chasse This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I’ve been reading alot of things about the different circuit testers out on the market and I’m wondering what the opinion is on the Sure Test testers, and which tester of those are recommended the most and for what reason. Wow, that was a long sentence, I’m out of breath. Please advise.
Originally Posted By: jmyers This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Brad,
While I personally use the cheapo $12 plug style testers, I have heard many good things about the sure test.
Depending on the model you should be able to test for bootleg grounds which would be the only reason I would ever buy one. If you are a good common sense person, you can actually "reason out" if the house has bootleg grounds according to the wiring in the panel. So for me the extra $188 you would spend on one makes it less attractive.
If you do decide to go with the sure test, make sure you are well instructed with its use and readings, this type of testing in the wrong hands is more dangerous than the cheapo tester because you are more likely to misread the information that it provides.
Originally Posted By: Brad Chasse This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Thanks Joe, I would hope that this tester I ordered would come with the proper documentation. For sure I would study this to make sure I was using it properly. It wouldn’t make sense to do it any other way, being anal and all. But what really hurt me about your post was the $188 price tag you posted. You’re really breaking my heart . I paid $205 plus shipping . If it saves me some time and brain power it will be worth every penny.
Originally Posted By: jremas This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
OK…I have used a top of the line Fluke since 1983 and have upgraded in models as they progressed. I still take them over any other. HOWEVER, since using a DMM is not practical I started using my outlet electrical tester. What I have found out is that IF a GFCI has no ground, the self test will work but the receptacle tester will no trip it because it needs the ground in order to trip the GFCI. If the GFCI was used to replace a 2 prong receptacle with no ground then OK no problem if the GFCI self test trips it. I just can’t bring myself to spend the money on a Sure Tester because it has more bells and whistles than we need. We don’t need to check voltage drop or Hz and if we do and document it then we are taking on tons more liability as we are now portraying ourselves as experts in the electrical field…might not be worth it.
Does anyone have any issues with any of the testers they are using? Right now I use an Ideal Transmitter #61-052. It is part of a circuit finding system that I used when I did electrical work. It can test 7 different conditions and has a GFCI trip function (still needs a ground to trip the GFCI). The store bought piece of crap I have as a backup only does 6, trips the GFCI (needs a ground) and looks cheap. There must be something available without the price, bells and whistles of the Sure Test. Any ideas?
--
Jeff Remas
REMAS Inspections, Inc.
Northeastern PA & the Poconos
www.NEPAinspector.com
Originally Posted By: David VanderSchaaf This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Hi All
A friend of mine did an inspection and tested kitchen counter split receptacles with a tester and all the light came on. So he went to his volt meter and the meter read 239 volts. Seems the home owner attached the black line to one side , red to the other side and the white to the ground.
I guess the wanted it for his combination knife sharpener/welder.
David
-- VanderSchaaf Property Inspection
174 Norton ON
London Ontario
519-686-6211
Originally Posted By: gbeaumont This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Hi Dave,
welcome to the forum I loved your post I’m still giggling. didn’t you know that when you have sharpened the knife that it needs heat treating to hold the edge
Originally Posted By: Aaron Rosenbaum This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I know inspectors that use the cheap GFCI testers and they are fine and have been doing business for years, but I have a Sure Test. It can read if there is a false ground and the cheapo ones don’t read that. They are rare, but it can happen. I believe a false ground is when the neutral is connected to the ground or if running wires, if the neutral wire somehow touches the ground wire. The Suretest can read out 15 feet from the outlet it is tested on to read for false grounds. If I’m wrong, someone please correct me.
Just my .02 
Originally Posted By: Dennis Bozek This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Looks like Jeff is pushing the Fluke DMM…and understandibly so…I use the same and it is a bit more expensive but it’s worth it as well as easily calibrated.
Of course you have the infamous "two finger" hot chassis check which is accomplished by licking your index and middle finger and then placing it on the metal part of the panel. If you feel a jolt of juice...I'd call a sparky..... 
Overall, if one is unsure if an outlet is properly grounded, remove the outlet cover and peek inside. This is one way to determine if there is that 3rd wire on the ground or not. If one feels brave enough, you can always remove the outlet to be absolutely sure.
Also beware that a outlet in a metal box, fed by conduit or MC cable can be grounded even though a ground wire is not present. Years ago this was an acceptable means of grounding a outlet and purely in a industrial environment, but today...you must have that ground wire attached.
-- This information has been edited and reviewed for errors by your favorite resident sparky.
Originally Posted By: jmyers This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Aaron,
Here is some advice that most likely no other inspector will ever give you. When you place yourself in the position of an electrician, you will be expected to find everything wrong that is electrical. By using that more expensive testing device you are raising the expectations of your clients to believe you are as qualified as an electrician. If you are fine, if you are not you will need more than a good attorney! 
Originally Posted By: Dennis Bozek This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Cmon Joe…you guys and umm girls can do a lot of things electrical that can help you determine something in regards to electrical without being classified as a sparky!!
Removing a outlet cover and peeking inside or utilizing an expensive tester to determine a voltage or current will not classify you as a sparky...but taking your 1/0's out and stripping the live main feeder to determine it's gauge might...lol....umm don't do that ever unless you know what you are doing.
In fact, doing a load calculation on a house won't even classify you as a sparky. One would just be going the extra step and utilizing a book that is just not reserved for sparkies! Sorry Joe I just had to post this...I guess I am funny that way! 
-- This information has been edited and reviewed for errors by your favorite resident sparky.
Originally Posted By: jmyers This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Dennis,
To put it another way. If you start quoting electrical code violations in your inspection report you have set the presedence to find all the electrical code violations and include them in your report. What do you think happens when you don't find all of them?
If you start talking and acting like a sparky are you not setting the presedence of being an equal with a sparky in the clients eyes?
Most of the time I am funny...this time I am serious!
Originally Posted By: Dennis Bozek This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Yup…in fact I’m even thinking of hanging up my pursuit of HI and just doing electrical safety inspections. I’m beginning to believe that any home inspections I might do would tend to have me getting way to involved in the electrical area. Obviously that can be a problem and lol…I don’t figure I can stop it mostly because I was born with a wiggy in my hand!!!
– This information has been edited and reviewed for errors by your favorite resident sparky.
Originally Posted By: rking This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
My two cents worth!
It is my very humble opinion that no HI should ever quote a code or a non compliance with a code of any sort. It is my belief that once you have quoted one code then your client will expect you to know every code!
I always just say " that is not a typical practice" or “that appears to be poor workmanship”, or “that does not appear to be doing its intended function and should be checked out by a licensed specialist in the field”
I could quote building codes pertaining to framing until the cows came home and went back out again , but I WILL NOT!
. I paid $205 plus shipping . If it saves me some time and brain power it will be worth every penny.
, but I WILL NOT!