Drip cap is missing
Yep. I see it like that all the time…relying on sealant at the seam. Bound to fail.
Sealed at bottom will just trap water.
I don’t think I would call it out, I see no problem…I might mention it to the client. Currently conditions there are fine. It may never have a problem.
It looks like the brick is level if so a flashing my do nothing but look correct. Caulk will trap water behind the siding but stop it from going behind the brick if it is level. A large OVH will minimize that. What did you do Joe?
My opinion is that a wall assembly should not rely on sealant to prevent water entry with the exception of wood-like lap siding butt end joints.
How often does the average homeowner inspect a sealant seam for integrity? How long does it take a failed seam to allow water entry? When the sealant fails, water gets behind the siding at the brick. I call it out.
Here’s the vinyl siding association’s instructions (see page 3):
“Best Practice: To achieve designed performance, vinyl siding must be installed over a water-resistive barrier system that includes 1) a continuous water-resistive material and 2) properly integrated flashing around all penetrations and where vinyl siding interfaces with other building products such as brick, stone, or stucco.”
“Transition from Brick to Vinyl Siding n Caulk where the sheathing meets the brick or stone exterior. Flashing should be caulked
where it meets the brick or stone and a drip cap should be in place.”
Here’s a manufacturer’s instructions:
“Flashing, such as aluminum coil, roofing felt or house wrap, should be applied around windows, doors, other openings, inside and outside corners, and the intersection of walls and roofing to prevent water infiltration.”
Here’s the code below. Note that there is no exception for caulk use.
“2009 IRC R703.8 Flashing. Approved corrosion-resistant** flashing shall
be applied shingle-fashion in a manner to prevent entry of
water into the wall cavity or penetration of water to the building
structural framing components**. Self-adhered membranes used
as flashing shall comply with AAMA 711. The flashing shall
extend to the surface of the exterior wall finish. Approved corrosion-
resistant flashings shall be installed at all of the following
locations:1. Exterior window and door openings. Flashing at exterior
window and door openings shall extend to the surface of
the exterior wall finish or to the water-resistive barrier
for subsequent drainage.
2. At the intersection of chimneys or other masonry construction
with frame or stucco walls, with projecting lips
on both sides under stucco copings.
3. Under and at the ends of masonry, wood or metal copings
4. Continuously above all projecting wood trim.
5. Where exterior porches, decks or stairs attach to a wall or
floor assembly of wood-frame construction.
6. At wall and roof intersections.
7. At built-in gutters.
**Commentary: **The code requires that all points subject to the entry of
moisture be appropriately flashed. Although the code identifies a
number of locations where flashing is specifically required,
the entire exterior envelope must be weather
tight to protect the interior from weather. Therefore,
any location on the exterior envelope that provides a
route for the admission of water or moisture into the
building must be properly protected.”
Flashing is ideal but with level or negative pitch it is only pretty. If the “J” chanel is back caulked with a good sealant it will funtion well. Not ideal at all or you can remove the course of brick and have Roy reinstall it properly.
I believe a caulking beaded joint could be addad on the wall assembly to prevent water being trapped or havind holes to let water out.
Brossard, Quebec, Canada
Ever heard of wind driven rain? How about snow and ice? How would the “levelness” help that?
I think I am beating something that does not need beating. If the ledge is level or back pitched will water run off the front or back or both? I stand by my theory that if the ledge does not have proper pitch counter flashing will do little to stop water from getting behind the wall. I ran 2 exterior remodeling crews for over 15 years after working he trades for another 10 and that was my experience. There is more than one way to skin that cat but I do agree you provided the proper explanation to your client. I am no longer a contractor and am just sharing my experience.
DUH! I didnt look at your picture only read the text! I was always accused of only looking at pictures as a kid. Next time just tell me to SHUT UP:oops::mrgreen:
Transition from Brick to Vinyl Siding
**[/size][/FONT][FONT=ZapfDingbats][size=3][/size][/FONT][FONT=HelveticaLTStd-Roman][size=3]- Use a J-channel to receive vertical siding; remember to drill minimum 3/16” (4.8mm) diameter weep holes no more than 24” (610mm) apart.
The “J” Channel should not be Caulk Sealed along the Bottom Edge.
A common refrain I hear from contractors is, “I’ve been building houses for XX years…”. That may be true, but how often do contractors go back and examine their work 5, 10 or 15 years after they did it? That’s what we as home inspector do…look at pre-existing work. Home inspectors have seen the test of time and should after a few years realize the differences between Poor, OK and Good work. I can’t build a decent dog house, but I know what to look for!
Joe H and I are the two smartest people here so far.
Joe PLEASE don’t call me a conspector LOL. I followed my Dad as a kid he was an HI so were my in laws. Then against thier wishes I joined the other side as well as Inspections. I gave most of my tools to my last customer and have no desire to ever go back. I agree with your builder theory and am glad I learned in remodeling. It is a great teacher next to my “old man” of course. Cant forget my fellow HI’s at NACHI
I will agree with that;-)
How is it performing? Pretty hard to call out if it has been in place for a long time and no performance issues are evident.
However… Looks to me like there has been some previous repairs/re-pointing?