Pressure gages (water) may differ in PSI & GPM from one instrument to another by a few pounds, irregradles, if pressure is too high (over 80) always recommend a second opinion from a sate licensed plumber to be sure. That way you are relieving yourself of liability and passing it on to the specialist.
building codes are for “building”. They do not regulate how you will maintain your residence! This is not new construction. Pressure recommendations from the IRC is a good rule of thumb to go by, but it doesn’t require a homeowner to pay a plumber to come adjusted when they sell their home.
as James posted:
you sure you are not a Realtor??? 
I used to be, for two years while my wife was finishing college.
What your point?
I guess I can spill the beans at this point and tell you that the Realtor that called was the one that got me to become a home inspector.she is not one of those “ell it at all cost” Realtors. before ever got close to posting this question, she had already determined that the cost of a plumber is insignificant to the seller and they would have it fixed.
But this is not the point.
I’m also not asking people how to write my report.
I just want to know if anyone came up with something “significant” it requires a certain water pressure (such as maximum water pressure for a fire suppression system).
Seeing as nothing has surfaced, you can let this thread lie.
Thank you for your support!
what?? nothing has surfaced??? :shock:
why even take water pressure if you really do not care what it is??? :roll:
is there any part of a HI report where you do not just make up your own criteria??? 
What? Where did that come from? Then ask that question, do not assume others are going to read your mind and pull that rabbit out of the hat for you. Shesssh … :shock:
The end result is not of importance! I’m looking for any contributions of knowledge that can be substantiated. I’m not looking for old wives tales.
Brian, if you read the post you would see that I am not the one taking the pressure readings. Again, I’m looking for documentation not made up bull ship. Can you provide anything more than this?
I was asked my opinion, and I gave it to the agent.
People ask wild *** questions here all the time, thought I might gain some insight.
Guess not.
Now let’s all shift over to Billy’s thread and slam the crap out of him about following SOP!
Chuck, you couldn’t answer the question without knowing the outcome?
Let me rephrase the question again : is there anywhere out there that requires water pressure to be regulated besides new construction (and if you read, you will see that this is about whether you should or should not have to install a pressure reducing valve. It has nothing to do with regulating maximum water pressure)?
If your water pressure exceeds 80 psi a water pressure reducing valve must be installed. Acceptable water pressure by building code is anywhere from 15 to 90 PSI depending on where you live.
Does anyone know of an appliance such as a newfangled on demand hot water heater or a dishwasher or any other type of appliance or water supply piping in the house that does not allow water pressures in excess of 80 psi?
the link i posted for the toilet said 80 psi…
and water hammer also becomes more prevalent…
but hey, you know best… 
David, do you write up guardrail pickets spaced 10" apart? How about 8 inches apart? What about 5"? 4.5? (I do, since each example exceeds today’s commonly accepted standards.) But when I write up a picket 5" wide, I don’t have a realistic expectation that anyone will change it.
80 psi max is today’s commonly accepted standard. I always assume somebody smarter than me developed today’s standards. Ours is not to reason why.
Jeff, you may want to consider modifying your statement. About 1/2 of high pressure homes I see have no regulator at all.
15 psi???
I have a narrative that covers high pressure on an unregulated system as well. I gave this one only because a regulator was referenced from the beginning.
And when you call out the stairway issue, do you expect somebody to pull down the staircase and rebuild it(outside of new construction)? you can talk about it all day long. Just keep the repair or further evaluation out of it.
I tell the client if they can’t live with yet, go find another house.
Simply report what you find!
No one, no where is required to rebuild the staircase in their home because it doesn’t meet an existing building code standard. Just get over it.
You still haven’t answered my question.
I’m not talking about stairs, or rails , or any thing else but water pressure.
Joe, do you have an attention deficit disorder? 
I thought I answered it. Sorry.
I call out water pressure if it’s > 90 psi. Recommend a plumber. Put it in the Summary.
I call out the lack of an expansion tank if it’s a gas water heater on a municipal water system. (I don’t make a big deal out the lack of an thermal expansion control on older homes, but recommend one be installed when a new water heater is put in.)