Essay for Advanced Radon Measurement Service Provider Course
The images show an active radon system. The system had an inline fan installed at the exterior with a weather proofing cover. The radon mitigation pipe was connected to the sump pump system. The sump pump had a retrofitted cover with a clear plexiglass viewing port. No significant defects or damage were seen, though potential upgrades could be installed. The used of a galvanized downspout as the mitigation pipe can easily allow leaks. Additionally, the system has been installed in a region that has fairly harsh winters. It is recommended the mitigation pipe be sealed with duct mastic and insulated for optimal performance and to reduce the chance of damage.
Research essay for Advanced Radon Measurement Service Provider Course
Response to Drones and Inspections article
The drone article was informative, thought a little dated. It talked about the various advantages of using drones for inaccessible roofs. I am very interested in the use of drones and am optimistic in using them in the future. I feel using drones for roofs and/or crawlspaces will make the home inspection industry safer and allow us to be more comprehensive while providing more information for our clients. Additionally, the rules and regulations posed by the FAA for commercial use of drones have become more accessible to the general public, which I feel is a positive step to drone integration in the industry.
This is a picture of a retro fit Radon Mitigation Fan System. Notice there is a dedicated switch box powering the fan. The Radon Mitigation system appears to be installed correctly. In the installation of a Radon Vent Stack this probably should have went through the interior of the house and out of the roof to get the updraft or warm air effect. There are four visible bends in the vent from where the pipe comes out of the house to where it evacuates above the roof line. The concern with this picture is that the vent stack terminates about 10 feet or less from the window to the right. The system appears to be connected properly to the house and appears to be
I have found thru my research that the CR Monitor is the most accurate Radon Testing equipment. This is a short term Radon test to be done on the lowest level, preferably in living space for at least 48 hours with closed building conditions. Quality assurance is very important including calibration of instrument, background measurements, duplicate measurements and routine instrument checks. Also, documentation of monitor with serial numbers and a log book is essential for accurate record keeping.
I do not have access to a radon mitigation system at this time, I have a photo of a picture window that have multiple seals compromised. I would report that these windows be replaced before further damage and/or water penetration can occur.
I am going to write on the benefit of installing a radon mitigation system during a new build compared to installing one later down the road when a problem is encountered. The main focus for me and most people would be the cost. Installing a system before can cost between $300 and $500, installing after could cost as much as $2500 or even more in some cases. This alone should be enough information to take advantage of this opportunity.
This house is located in Oklahoma which is EPA Zone 3 classification for radon.
This home is on a non-slab Stemwall with floor joists design. Even though it was built in the late 1960’s it has a vapor barrier covering the dirt under the house. These Stemwall vents help keep continuous air movement and if this home was in a Zone 1 area this type of construction would definitely require an air mitigation fan system installed just for circulating moisture out.
The inspection of log homes for radon gas can have a lot of existing issues because of the construction of these homes in a lot of cases do not meet code. This is not unusual mainly where the locations of log homes/cabins are built. In some cases where permanent radon mediation system need to be installed this can become a costly issue with the homeowner.
This home has a sump pit depressurization system. The vent pipe was constructed of schedule 40 pvc, all penetrations were well sealed, and all vent piping was secure. The system fan was operating at the time of the inspection. The manometer indicated that system was working as designed at the time of inspection.
The article “If a home inspector misses something” was a good read. As the lead inspector and supervisor of 7 inspectors we do get our fair share of phone calls saying the inspector missed something. I always contact the client in a timely manner, find out what the perceived problem is, and offer to visit the property and take a look. I often find the problem to be 1/10th of the monster issue they make it out to be, sometimes the inspector even addressed it in the report, or it wasn’t visible (i.e. blocked by a bed or dresser) at the time of inspection. In this scenario I always offer the client options of how to repair or mitigate the issue, and make sure they understand why it may not have been seen by the inspector if appropriate. I always find that quick follow up and speedy resolution is the easiest route to keeping your clients satisfied. We are always looking for ways to improve, and are currently working on producing a video that helps set client expectations of the inspection process.
Radon is a radioactive gas that you cannot see, smell or taste and can get into your home undetected. It is the second leading cause of lung cancer after smoking and the leading cause of lung cancer for non-smokers. When radon escapes from the ground into the outdoor air it is diluted to low concentrations and is no cause for concern. However, when radon enters an enclosed space, like a home, through basement floor crack as shown in the picture, it can accumulate to high levels and become a health hazard. If the radon level in a home is high it can be easily fixed at a reasonable price.
Almost all homes have some radon in them, the question is how much. The only way to know is to measure. Radon levels in a home can vary a lot from hour to hour and day to day, so the most accurate way to find out if you have a problem is to measure radon levels in your home for at least 3 months. There are two options for testing a house for radon: one is to purchase a do-it-yourself long-term radon test kit and the other is to hire a certified radon measurement professional.
There are two options for testing a house for radon: to purchase a do-it-yourself radon test kit or to hire a radon measurement professional. If you choose to purchase a radon test kit, you must closely follow the instructions on how to set up the test.
If you choose to hire a service provider to perform the radon test in your house, it is recommended that you ensure they are certified and will conduct a long term test for a minimum of 3 months.
By taking this course I learned that houses/building suck. Knowing that they suck is not the shocker. Knowing that Radon may be entering into my breathing space is truly what sucks!
I now know that structures are creating a vacuum and sucking in contaminants such as radon.
With this true any opening becomes a path for radon or anything that may pass into the structure.
The picture I chose to upload is of flooring that had been wet. It caused the vinyl to separate from the molding. This can be one of many ways for air or contaminants to enter my breathing zone. Air could be suctioned in many ways. Pipes, vents, and cracks to name a few.
Radon Mitigation can and will save countless lives.
This picture denotes a uncovered sump-pump located in the basement of this home. Should this home test high or over 4 pCi/L a radon mitigation system would be recommended. If installed the sump lid should be completely sealed to reduce radon levels. Sealing the sump cover would help because of difference in pressure between outside and inside air create a vacuum and sump pump areas can be a likely area for radon to be drawn into the home.
The importance of dryer vents is just as important as any other aspect of the home inspection. Items such as improperly ran dryer vents create a potential fire hazard. Making sure that the vent length does not exceed 25’ and that for every 90 or 45 degree angle the proper adjustment is made to the overall length. Making sure the end of the vent does not terminate in an attic or crawlspace and that when properly vented to the exterior of the home it does not contain a screen since this can create the potential for clogging.
This radon mitigation system appears to be installed and functioning properly. It is an active system, drawing sub slab air from the sump pit and utilizes 3 inch PVC piping to allow the air to flow vertically to the roof. The system fan is installed properly in the attic. The sump cover was properly sealed and all required labeling was present.
My research was from reading the Home Buyers and Sellers Guide to Radon.
Radon is a radioactive gas that cannot be seen, smelled, or tasted. It can enter a home through cracks or holes in foundations and become trapped inside homes, usually in lower levels of the home. Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer. Additionally, radon causes 21,000 lung cancer deaths per year. The EPA and Surgeon General recommend all homes below the third floor be tested for radon. Radon gas is measured in picoCuries per liter of air (pCi/L). The EPA recommends homes that have a measured level of 4.0 pCi/L should be fixed through mitigation techniques.
A house I recently inspected had a radon mitigation system that was an active sub-slab depressurization system. The fan was located outside the home on the vertical vent pipe. All he joints on the vent pipe were properly sealed and the vent pipe extended above the eaves of the roof and was 10 feet from any window or door opening. The pressure gauge inside the home indicated that the fan was working properly.
