Anyone seen this?

Spalling on the concrete ledges and have also encountered on precast lintels over the windows supporting the upper block. I’ve gotten a few calls over the past 2 years to repair these and was wondering if any fellow ‘conspectors’ has seen a repair method that doesn’t involve removing the window, and replacing the entire sill or lintel? I did a repair on a top lintel and the job cost $5k. Had to bring in the concrete chainsaws, remove drywall, use a skid steer to hoist the heavy sucker in place and mortar in. Wasn’t sure if there was an epoxy resin you could inject in there using a soft form you could remove, sand, and paint once the epoxy dries. I’ve only seen it on 1980’s built houses in the developments over here in Tampa. Mostly in poorer constructed houses.

http://www.nrmca.org/aboutconcrete/cips/25p.pdf

Just curious, why are you worrying about a repair method?

Cause I like to know things…I’m hoping that wasn’t an insinuation as to if I’m quoting repairs for homes I inspect, that would be a no-no.

I have no problem with you doing that if you are licensed to do such things.

I was actually wondering if you provide costs to fix for your clients. I do not and have put it in my contract.

Just curious not trying to insinuate anything :slight_smile:

I believe you should be allowed to do anything you are qualified to do.

Gotcha. No I don’t provide repair cost estimates unless the client would specifically ask, then I will. I find its a service that alot of realtors like is having someone with that knowledge right there onsite versus having to schedule a meeting with another licensed GC to get a quote to repair damage. Saves people alot of time and hassle. I obviously tell them that its just a rough estimate but its still better than nothing I feel. But thats just what I’ve experienced.

I feel it is a sorry guess that we should not be doing and i am also qualified to give such quotes. I do not because of all the variables and time needed to do so accurately. I can only hope this state someday figures it out and makes it illegal.

Poor clients buy the crap used house salespeople tell them and think an inspectors opinion is a negotiating tool. I disagree and will not participate.

I in no way care if you do it I am only speaking about what I would like. Good Luck.

This is a great concrete repair product.

Interesting product. Thanks Charles, much obliged!

Fixed at, or fixed right is the question. My experience is that once it starts to rust like that, it has to come out. However, a skilled mud slinger will make it look like new again…For a little while…:slight_smile:

In addition, I refuse to give any estimates. That shouldn’t be our job as inspectors, even if we are licensed to do the repairs.

Your right Meeker. All they use the estimate for is to squeeze the seller for a dollar amount.

Oh, well I won’t ever put anything down in writing. I will on the spot, if asked, explain to them what a proper repair would consist usually consist of and what they might expect to pay roughly, but advise them that for an estimate they will need to get a contractor to properly bid the job.

“I believe you should be allowed to do anything you are qualified to do.” - M.M.

Michael , it does not matter what you think, if you belong to an organization you have to follow that organizations rules.

I’ll give the verbal ball park ‘gues-timate’. But if they want a real estimate, I encourage them to contact the licensed individual who may actually be willing to do the work.

Used this alot up north…sika flex](http://usa.sika.com/en/solutions_products/02/02a002/02a002sa02/02a002sa02100/02a002sa02104.html)

Portland and Torpedo sand with a polymer mixed in works great for smaller patches. Stay away from sacrete but Thoro crete is a good product.

Just clean the spall…remove all loose rust…paint the rebar with rustoleum
form…patch…finish it…paint it in a couple of days…

How long will it last…a long time…especially without a freeze thaw cycle to contend with.

Looks like the paint is the culprit on this. Concrete needs to breath…cover it with a non-permeable paint and any reinforcement eventually rusts.

duh.

If you need a good mud slinger let me know. I know plenty out of work :frowning:

Thanks everyone for the product recommendations!

Don’t forget the location and exposure to salt water!!!