Stucco question for Carl

or anyone else with knowledge.
My inspection today was for a barrier system eifs that was damaged in the hail storm.

So the repair was to cut the entire face off the front of the home and redo in conventioal 3 coat.

They did leave the edges and corners. NO moisture barrier was in these areas. The just added paper, and wire on exposed places.
No weep had been installed yet.

Should it all come off or not? They are in the process of removing and repairing wood now. I have a feeling it won’t be done right and the new buyer is well aware of all thats missing.

Sean
Can’ see them good on my phone I am not home, Barry Adair if he is home.

No big rush. I am sure it won’t be done right never is here. Just when you get to it.

The weep for sure needs to be under the moisture barrier.

(If) it was mine I would want it all taken off and the (2) layers of moisture barrier in proper placement.

Is the reason they are not taking the quoins of is that the CON-tractor does not know how to do them again or cost for the homeowner?

It looks like the moisture barrier is over the bottom nail fin on the windows now, that is like tucking your raincoat into your pants.

No backer rod and sealant joints anywhere? ( never/very seldom is)

Hope OSHA does not see the scaffold.

Do they use control/expansion joint there?

They used one control joint so far, but its all not tore of yet.
As far as not tearing off, my guess is cost due to insurance money, but it may just be laziness.

The guy buing it is an insurance adjuster, so he understood quickly what the deal was. I am hoping for an intervention/contractor piss off.

on top of what’s been identified

what weight is the lath?

is it nailed or stapled?

needs a detail-plan-drawing of how the stucco to windows, doors, penetrations & quoins will be integrated and water/weatherproofed and then they need to be able to apply correctly on site. if they can’t produce a drawing and follow to the letter they’ll produce a leaker!

basics more details are required for proper install

advanced

on top of what’s been identified

what weight is the lath?

is it nailed or stapled?

needs a detail-plan-drawing of how the stucco to grade minimum 2" above concrete flat work and 4" above dirt, windows, doors, penetrations & quoins will be integrated and water/weatherproofed and then they need to be able to apply correctly on site. if they can’t produce a drawing and follow to the letter they’ll produce a leaker!

basics more details are required for proper install

advanced

Carl would gobble 'em up and spit them out

on top of what’s been identified

what weight is the lath?

is it nailed or stapled?

are kickouts present?

needs a detail-plan-drawing of how the stucco to grade minimum 2" above concrete flat work and 4" above dirt, windows, doors, penetrations & quoins will be integrated and water/weatherproofed and then they need to be able to apply correctly on site. if they can’t produce a drawing and follow to the letter they’ll produce a leaker!

basics more details are required for proper install

advanced

Carl would gobble 'em up and spit 'em out…

do over!

A good check list even if from another state!

http://www.mnlath-plaster.com/library/index.htm

  http://www.mnlath-plaster.com/library/documents/SRCHandbook2007.pdf

http://www.mnlath-plaster.com/library/documents/ResStuccoChecklist_NEW.pdf

Look hard at the moisture barrier and Lath section of the list.

weep screed info under the moisture barrier.

http://amico-lath.com/lath/foundation_weep_screed.htm

Fantastic discussion and links guys! I have yet to see a textbook installation of either hard coat stucco or masonry veneer and am not holding my breath.

They can step back and admire the work at any time while free falling to the ground.

Yep
CSST in Quebec would be up the contactors butt for the scaffolding.
No EFIS Knoxville TN.
Good energy saver.
Cost must be the same?

Any word Sean?

Not a peep yet.

It could be worse!

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk164/cab1961/kickout-1.jpg