Bedford Stone home moisture problems.

Can anyone offer advice/solution for the issue with my stone? Follow my link at photobucket to view the pics.

thanks
Lee

As near as I could tell , you have water going into your wall . It would indicate to me that there is problem with your roof . I would advise you to get yourself a well qualified roofer to investigate more closely than what’s possible here . When you get that done , you may also want to contact a good inspector to see what moisture level you have in the wall . The inspector should be able to give you a good idea as to what you’ll need to do next ! ;):D:D

So you think the roof is bad on the whole roof? It’s happening on all but one side of the house.

Brandon:

It may be the way the vapor control was installed on the wall under the stone. Hot climates always have trouble in the wall assembly due to trying to keep the temperature down in the summer and trying keep the heat up in the winter. If there is a vapor barrier that was not removed when installation of the stone was installed or construction methods of more north climate were applied this can create moisture on the back side of the stone and wall sheathing installation. I would check this first before making an assumption that the roof is the problem.
Remember stones are porous and will allow water to wick through. If this is what is happening you will need your inside insulation checked for moisture.

What do you do for a living Brandon?

I work in a Warehouse.

I have went into the attic and see no signs of leaks in the roof.
It’s been snowy here and it doesnt have the problem in the summer, I assume bc the moisture evaporates due to the warmer weather. I was told it could be the mortar joints letting in water. I looked at my neighbors home and he has a crack all the way up the side of his house on the same side as mine and he doesnt have any issue like mine… Does anyone know a contractor/inspector in the Louisville, Ky area that could help me out with this ?

Brandon,

I just emailed some friends up there to see who they know and gave them your email.
Hopefully they will come up with something, maybe the guy that built their house.

If I am not mistaken by the photos it an Ashlar block. Precast stone. Cement product.
They absorb water after years of weather…
Water proofing. Not any water profiting. You have to know want you are doing.
So, masonry bedding has been affected by saturation.
The sill plate if soaked.
Flash the foundations top.
Cut into bedding 1.5 inches and flash with tin, gal, what ever.

Look to me its Ashlar cement product. Foe- stone.
Have laid it repaired it,and its big at one time in Montreal Canada. late 1950- 1960-and into 1970 then slowed down. Cheap to buy compared to real brown or gray stone.
That I bought reclaimed for repairs.50- 70 percent of the price for Ashlar.
No maintenance. Everything went south because of no maintenance.
Sorry for the edit.
I am a mason.
Facade company still working.
Sorry I did not say anything before. Please I am leery of help non members.
Fix.
1: gutters and down spout leaking to me. New over size 5 inch.
2: all new joints. Total point.
3: flash the foundation and sill plate.
those blocks in basement are soaked.
4: posable freanch drain.
5: water proofing ashlar foe-stone. Not any water proofing. Do it wrong and you change the color of the foe-stone and more, much more… Stone has to be washed first. Have to know what you are doing again.
Another home missed the maintenance cycle.

Call this builder, he should know of a good contractor

http://www.elitebuilthomes.com/contactus.html

It is real stone.

thanks Bruce.

And you know how?
I am sorry for the edit.
I was called away. Now Brandon. Explain to me please what indicates true quarried stone.
Please, note several indicators. your explanation please.
After I will explain a fix if stone.
I see a block foundation indicative of cheaper building practice. Along with several other systems that told me its ashlar.
Thanks Robert

here is a link to what the stone is.

Did you do a tap test Brandon to see if it is real stone. Do you see and flaking , it is an onion peal effect. Any effervescing ?
I am saying this because not many home owners know the difference.
They can be solid a load of goods when buying a home.
I see 2,3 4million dollar homes with stone work.
That bungalow. with hip roof and not expensive to build.
All the indications of standard quality build practices.
So why make the exterior envelope the biggest priced ticket item.
So again I would like you to describe to me other than someone giving you there word and tell me why you think it is the real macoy .
I am doing this not to be condescending but to build your knowledge.
You come here looking for information , from professional trades men.
Act as such and with dignity describe the material used in you own observations .
Not others word.
I see you have an interest in the practice and by you understand how to observe will deepen your interest in Home Inspection.
Thanks Brandon.
Non evasive observations.
1: Tap the stone for a sharp ping. A lessened thud will indicate cement. You have to tap in the right spot.Not hard and hold hammer lightly to let it rebound off the stone. A tuning fork idea.
2: look for onion peeling effect. Look at the entire facade for any stone that is shelling or peeling even in the smallest regard. Like skin peeling off when you get sun burnt or an onion when peeled.
3: White lime stains in patch in the underside areas of the stones projections.( high spots ) The masonry will cause this. Also you will be looking for veining.
The stone is sedentary and will flake when water absorbed and freeze thaw cycle happens…
In the viens the materials are drawn to the surface. It has to be wet for you to notice this unless it is abundant. The it will almost appear quartz like in appearance if the stone is dry…
4: If you have a brick hammer you go to the least excessable and viable area and knock off the topmost surface ( high spot ) a peak in the stone.Blade side of the hammer. It will fall of flake off. You have to know how and where to strike the stone.
PS: I blew-up the photos and can not see any indicators that its real stone.
It ca surely fool the common layperson.
Its a 3 step pattern. Simple when you know how to lay that foe stone or stone size.
You have 3 sizes of stone and can cut for length and apply a pattern without much difficulty.
I would get full length and it comes on a plate.
Foe stone would be set length and set sizes.
Good luck. Please come back with observation and discovery noted.
Thanks…Robert
Sorry all for the long post.

Yes It’s real stone. Had a mason come out this weekend he pointed out the problems and he’s going to fix me up.

I am happy you had your question answered.
I tried to help. Go to professionals for estimates Brandon.
Its free. They will inform you.
Good Luck.
All the best.
Show pictures after it completed please.
Thanks.

thanks. I will. I’m probably going to have to get a loan to pay for it because its going to be pretty extensive.

Bondon.
3 or 4 estimates.
Out with the high and low.
The other 2 ask for licensing, insurance, look at truck, men, and if the look OK. Some will have photo of work or send you to clients home to view work.
NO CHAS JOBS !!!

  • Are you licensed? Ask for proof, and check with your state’s contractors’ licensing board to verify.
  • When can you start and finish? If you have a deadline, let the contractor know upfront, adding extra time so they can complete the job before the big event.
  • How many years have you been in business?
  • What is your work schedule for my project? Make sure they arrive and leave at the same time each day they work. The contractor should provide a calendar listing days on and off.
  • Will you be the onsite supervisor? If not, who will be?
  • Will the same subcontractors and workers be with my project throughout its entirety?
  • Do you carry workmen’s comp? Ask for proof.

All siding material needs a drainage plane. Yours probably does not and the wood walls look like they are rotting.

****R703.1.1 Water resistance. ****The exterior wall envelope shall
be designed and constructed in a manner that prevents the accumulation
of water within the wall assembly by providing a
water-resistant barrier behind the exterior veneer as required
by Section R703.2 and a means of draining to the exterior water
that enters the assembly. Protection against condensation in the
exterior wall assembly shall be provided in accordance with
Section R601.3 of this code….

****R703.7.4.2 Air space. ****The veneer shall be separated from the
sheathing by an air space of a minimum of a nominal 1 inch (25
mm) but not more than 41/2 inches (114 mm).
(There are exceptions.)

****R703.7.5 Flashing. ****Flashing shall be located beneath the first
course of masonry above finished ground level above the foundation
wall or slab and at other points of support, including
structural floors, shelf angles and lintels when masonry
veneers are designed in accordance with Section R703.7. See
Section R703.8 for additional requirements.

****R703.7.6Weepholes.****Weepholes shall be provided in the outside
wythe of masonry walls at a maximum spacing of 33
inches (838 mm) on center. Weepholes shall not be less than 3/16
inch (5 mm) in diameter. Weepholes shall be located immediately
above the flashing.